Thanks for the offer Mark,

I should be OK now I'm getting the original re-cored but many thank for the offer.

Mac.

UPDATE

Aft'noon all,

Having said that I could've made a better job of the wheels, I had a better excuse for having the tyres off the rims - the truly awful choice of budget rubber bands that Eddie chose.
NANKANG - very long lasting apparently but like driving on ball bearings in the dry and icy ball bearings in the wet - one drive was enough for me! Off they went, and rims too , to be
grit blasted, acid dipped and powder coated. I chose a greyish silver to allow me match the Volvo brighter silver with paint later (and possibly paint the insides black as per standard).

Having now got them back (Suffolk Stove Enamellers at (I think) a not unresonable cost of £35.00 per rim) I'm not sure - I rather like them in the colour they are - what does everybody
think ???







I've chosen Avon ZT5s to run on so hopefully I will be able to go out in the wet.!

Talking of tyres - found a bulge on the o/s/f of the wifes S40 - so sign of impact on tyre or rim - so it's going back to Pirelli (for them
no doubt claim it's my fault). One 205 50 R17 Pirelli P7 XL - fitted (by the Volvo dealer) for £154.00 arrrrrrgh! (actually only about £4 more than Black Circles) so only argh!
Anyway whilst at the dealers I presented a list of 37 part to the sprog in stores - 8 still available (better than I thought) So I can still get the inner steering bellows clips
(not the outer), handbrake cable retainers, the short w/pump bolts (not the long), the nuts for the rear engine mounts (but not the mounts of course), and the caliper to
carrier bolts (the ones you get with the pads), but not the bolts to hold the whole lot on.!!!

I managed to source front engine mounts (from Braydon Motors) but have yet to find the bellhousing mountings - anyone know of a source ???

All for today - Mac.

They look rather fetching.
What are you doing about the centre caps Mac?
Have they been painted to match?

mac wrote:I chose a greyish silver to allow me match the Volvo brighter silver with paint later (and possibly paint the insides black as per standard).
Having now got them back... I'm not sure - I rather like them in the colour they are - what does everybody think ???

I think they look good as they are, only a complete anorak (or anyone else here now you've told them ) would spot the colour difference.

Hi mac.
If its the bolts that hold the calliper in place when you change the pads, i
have a set somewhere. Take bottom one out, loosen top one. Those ones.
Cheers Mark.

Hi Mark,

Those I have - it's the flange head bolts that secure the caliper carrier to the strut that are NLA (I shall match them at a bolt supplier).

The caliper "swing" bolts ( M8 X 22 threadlocked) are still available (3277770 ss to 30863322 now ss to 30742947) and any decent set of front pads should include a set.

But again Mark many thanks for the offer.


Hub caps - haven't decided yet but I suspect they will stay as they are.

As I take the 340 apart I am "researching" the possibility of producing a "critical bolt" pack to add to my gaskets. I would hope to include those bolts that should be replaced
and those that "suffer" (like the disc to hub s/screws, caliper carrier bolts, B14 water pump bolts, driveshaft inhex etc. etc.) Thoughts anybody ??. Still can't find a supplier
of 5/8 UNF stake nuts !! Going to look stateside - they still seem to understand UNF.

Mac.

Sounds like a good idea on the bolts, don't like putting back on the old rounded rusty ones, especially in hard to reach places!

Much grubbing about on the net =



£17.00 + vat & shipping from the clearance lines @ Carparts-Direct.

Mac.

Are all manual 340 racks the same regarding fitting, lock to lock, turning circle and operation etc? Just thinking of one for my 1980 343 to 360/2.3 conversion project!

There are two basic types of manual rack but as far as I remember they mount the same way and are interchangeable.

Early (up to '80') had shim adjustment and removable input shaft. Late ('81' on) had thrust block adjustment and input shaft part of the pinion.

Also (both types) B14 has a 20.3:1 ratio and 4.13 turns lock to lock B172/B19/B200 has a ratio of 21.8:1 with 4.4 L to L. (a higher ratio to lighten steering load with a heavier engine ??)

I have just checked the rack above (listed as late, for B14 and B172K and has thrust block adjust) and it seems to have a L to L of about 4 (ie a B14 rack).

Mac.

Early rack also uses different bolt fixings on the column side, the casting is different around the pinion to allow for shim adjustment.

Hole in is the late crossmember to allow fitment however, I run an early rack in Fake and intend to keep it as it's shimmable/eventually pinion changable

UPDATE

Rad back with a new core.




Started at the front, stripped the front panel for cleaning,inspection and rustproofing - a little grubby but all in all in
really good nick!



The only grot so far is on the front valence (surprise, surprise) but with it ground out and and treated with
phosphoric acid you can see the extent - I shall be pushed to let in a new piece of 22g bigger than 2" x 1/2" !!



All for today - Mac

That front end DOES look solid.

Hi mac.
As VND says, that front end looks to be in pretty good nick.
The recent 91 LE i got for the 5 speed box has a front vallance thats a real gonner.
Hope the work is coming along well.
Cheers Mark.

UPDATE

Valence fettled, rust spots attended to, cleaned and treated with clear waxoyl - panel now ready to accept
rebuilt rad, new h/lamps etc.



Now to start on the engine bearer and front suspension.

Mac