Cheers mate i will have a look and do some research about it

a few updates of the recent work done

bonnet is rusting nicelt due to the recent rain we have had..


Removed all the glue that was left behind by the sound proofing..


Then sprayed it up..




Finish the rest of the floor off next and sort tracking and brakes out, if anyone has a full exhaust goin cheap let me know.

Youre trying VERY hard at not giving a f!@k there man.

Maybe you should have written "I care a lot, and put quite a lot of time and effort into looking scene".

Good luck to you though.

If its putting a smile on your dial, its well worthwhile.

Dont forget to swap the drivers door barrel with the passenger door barrel.

volvosneverdie wrote:Youre trying VERY hard at not giving a f!@k there man.

Maybe you should have written "I care a lot, and put quite a lot of time and effort into looking scene".

That amused me greatly

I agree though, if it's what you like...

If you can corner weight your car, I can get critical damping and wheel rates for certain HZ range, which might help you a bit, my latest calculator version should be quite close to perfection already. But it still might be challenge to hunt shocks that are in correct range, however it would at least give something to hunt for.

Something like 1.9Hz front and 1.3-1.5Hz rear might be quite good goal, but to get it perfect it would be perhaps good to prepare for getting several set of springs as in practice testing different combos will be only way to really get into what works for driver. Rear is simple in there that is is adding leaf to get it stiffer. Shock adjustment is mostly needed if different springs are used, but as it is darn hard to get perfect shocks often adjustments will help to choose compromise that is least worse, which of course don't need to be bad at all, just not quite perfect either.

In theory it should be then possible to achieve a vehicle that is better than most, but all this is just hobbyist theories which might be greatly flawed, let that be disclaimer, I don't know yet everything and lack of opportunities to test all in practice is certainly not helping, but stuff should be rather solid and it should result quite bit better than approach without numbers, there just is no guarantee which is good to mention so that you know how much to weight on theories

Tune to Win should contain lot of same stuff and it is very solid stuff in there, but still it would need to be finetuned, In F1 McLaren, Ferrari and Minardi certainly had same knowledge of these basic things, but their fine tuning made quite bit of differences, however with Minardi's level one would be king in many other motorsport class

It is rather interesting stuff.

The 'we dont give a f!@k' quote relates to weather people like it or not and what happens to it 'we dont give a f!@k' .. its nice to have a car that doesnt need washing every week and any dents can be left .. it was bought lookin run down so there was no point in making it look better when it will probly be crashed a few times whilst learnin how to drift

Hi lads and welcome.
Not my cup of tea but each to there own.
At least your putting a bit of work into it.
Like the wheels though. I would put the bumpers back together again
if i were you. Its one of the resons nobody ever dies in one of these cars.
Old fart rant over and good luck.
Cheers Mark.

if its run down and was already a dead 360 its ok!
i kinda like the rat-look, wanted to rat my 360, but my new one is way too good to do that to, roofrack and black bonet is a must thou

i know its not to everyones taste .. its just an idea at the minute i might get bored of the look and want to do something with it at some stage but when its had the engine swap and sat at the lights and one of your chavvy cars that we have so many of in our area trys his luck he will be humiliated by a shagged out volvo 340

thats one of the reasons im going to tweak my engine a bit when i can afford it

"We don't give a F!@K but we draw the line at swearing"

were are you guys as my college technican was telling me about you i think

we live in kirkby in ashfield .. has he seen us?

jtbo wrote: Standard front shocks have 185mm of travel, with default springs more than half of that is already used up, with 2" lowering car is already riding hard on bumpstops (if those are not lost at some part of car's life), lowering front 4" is perhaps impossible, might be possible if bumpstops are removed, but it would be same to weld suspension solid. Only way to get such lowering to work would be new struts, but it still would require inner wheel arches to be removed at least, probably quite bit more to be done.

na man; im way over 4" on standard shocks and its still got travel, although not much of it, it still moves. no lorries hit as of yet

try finding a pair of cheap coilovers with insert dampers and cut them about. mine are in slow progress and im currently making spherical bearing top mounts (easily made adjustable too) and so far has cost almost nothing!

valman wrote: na man; im way over 4" on standard shocks and its still got travel, although not much of it, it still moves. no lorries hit as of yet

try finding a pair of cheap coilovers with insert dampers and cut them about. mine are in slow progress and im currently making spherical bearing top mounts (easily made adjustable too) and so far has cost almost nothing!

You are just driving on bumpstops or then you don't have those in first place?

Shock absorber has no more movement than 185mm, that I have measured, also I have measured how much movement there is when I jack car up and when car is resting on it's wheels, when doing math it does not have 4" left, damper piston should go trough damper body, mine has new GLT springs at front.

If your's is truly 4" lower, then your base level had to be higher for some reason, was your's 340 or 360? I think there was about inch of difference on standard height?

valman wrote:

jtbo wrote: Standard front shocks have 185mm of travel, with default springs more than half of that is already used up, with 2" lowering car is already riding hard on bumpstops (if those are not lost at some part of car's life), lowering front 4" is perhaps impossible, might be possible if bumpstops are removed, but it would be same to weld suspension solid. Only way to get such lowering to work would be new struts, but it still would require inner wheel arches to be removed at least, probably quite bit more to be done.

na man; im way over 4" on standard shocks and its still got travel, although not much of it, it still moves. no lorries hit as of yet

try finding a pair of cheap coilovers with insert dampers and cut them about. mine are in slow progress and im currently making spherical bearing top mounts (easily made adjustable too) and so far has cost almost nothing!

How have you lowered yours then? and what size blocks are you running? if thats yours on the picture it looks spot on what size wheels are they?