woho i'v now got my automatic-driving-lights

the green wire only got 7.5V (must be a loss in some of the connections, dunno where), so i just took the wire from the light above the light-switch. Now everything seems fine!

Thanks again mate! even though my team lost 1-5 to leicester city, i'm smiling from ear to ear!

can more powerful full beam lamps be used in 340 holders? my full beam is pitiful....

I have 30% upgraded headlight bulbs and havent had any problems

Sorry I've been taking a bit over this all, photos for how to cure rear cluster earth faults (you do need to have a vague amount of soldering under your belt, but get some spare bulb holders from teh scrappy to practise)

Dead simple other than the first bit of soldering. Take out the bulb holder, and tin (heat and coat with solder) both a 6in length of wire (enough to get to the bolt that holds the cluster in) and the earth strip on the bulb holder (the bit that doesn't have a wire going to it). Then hold the two tinned pieces close, apply a tad of heat, and all is good. Solder (or crimp if you don't like soldering) a ring terminal to the other end of the wire, and under the bolt that holds the cluster in. Attach ring to bolt. Redo up the bolt, and the bulb holder should work when you switch the right switch. Stuff the holder back where you found it, and smile

Remember, 300 earths are brown, not black like I've used. This was cos I was in a rush, but make your own life easier for when you have to trace faults





Sexy amp optional

Nice, I think that I will have something to do tomorrow after all

I have been meaning to post that and take some photos for a while. I know it's caused Kar some issues, glad it's going to help mate

@kakemnstr; you're wellcome. Only thing is that probably the daytime running lights are now fused on a different fuse than they are supposed to. you should try to get the green wire at 12 V, maybe there's just a bad contact on its fuse???

hehe, did have trouble with the fuses at first, but changed fuse 11 (dashboard, rpm etc) from 8A to 16A, and it's seem's to work fine.

The funny thing, when the fuse broke, the CD-player also died, but the fan worked at 3'rd level (CD-player and 3'rd level on the fan is on the same fuse)... strange.

Where to find the bad connection on the green wire? dont know what fuse it goes on, but every fuse should be fine. can be hard so search on this wire as it goes straight down in the pipes with all the others original wires...

and what kind of smart-ass from volvo put the brakelights on the same fuse as the cd-player?

okey here i go again...

got me a couple of nice extra-lights from a mazda on the scrap, and placed them in my grille. Can get some pictures in the morning, looks pretty nice.

Anyway, the lights works great, but it's a small mather of the connection. Was supposed to connect them to the wire inside the right light, the one that controls the "long-lights" (ehh.. dont know what it's called, lighthorn, flashers etc...). This worked for about 10 seconds before the lights went off, now i dont got any power in this wire at all. Checked the fuse (nr1 should be the one for the right "long-light") and all the fuses where fine.

Where could the error be?

thanks

if you're very unlucky;

melted light switch




ALWAYS use a relay, driving an extra (fused!) wire from B+ when installing extra lamps on a car.
This always prevents the electrical problems you have now.

solved it now, feeling kind of stupid becouse it was the fuse afterall... was not easy to see, but a multimeter got the job done. 16A fuse in place and works fine. Looks pretty nice, even though the lights mostly points up in the air

next topic; 'oh my god my car burned down'

at least we wont have to look far for the cause....


very, VERY unwise methods, mister!!!

Adding higher rated fuses isn't generally a good plan

*Checks fire extinguisher is still under seat*

From the owner's manual:

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hehehe, dont think i got any fuses with original value