it appears thet tha resister is divided so depending on the relay point the fan is reduced to slow and slower. With the resister by-passed the fan blows full strength.
I think the bi-metalic switch is a thermal cut out to prevent resister burn out and since that rarely occurs they corode. They are riveted onta a piece of board and replacing the bi-metalic contac unit may be possible but difficult. Also what value and setting is required! The one out of the wife's steam iron? dangerous idea
I did consider bridging (shorting it out) to make it redundant but I need to think that through in case I set fire to the car!
Yeah, just an idea... don't like the option of fire + car....
I have the advantage of about 2 years on most age wise, so I'm quite happy trying to get a solution sorted, then at least I won't be without a heater for long when it happens
I now have my heater fan working on all speeds! Very strange having quiet heat 'cos, as previously stated, I had hardwired the fan through to the cigar socket which gave full blast only. So now I can didconnect it.
Used part secured from donor car in Derbyshire! Thanks Steve.
Happy warm bunny now.
Would that be Mr Volvo Vince by any chance? Top bloke
Mine packed up the other day, so until I could get rolling enough for the airflow to pick up naturally, there was some Ace Ventura style head out of the window action going on! It's going again now, but I definitely need to look into this with some urgency once it gets a little warmer.
Wierd, as I'm sure it was around Christmas when it gave up for a couple of days last year!
I'm going to be pulling these from any car that allows easy access in scrappers now, I don't have a spare anymore and the one I just fitted looks WORSE than the one that went!
