hi there!

Weber replacement carb? interesting! what type is the original and hwere did you get the replacement from?

cheers

Shimon

Fake is running a weber replacement too, I'm sure there is a picture or too either on my comp or hosting, I'll have a look and link to it. I also had to weber part no for this the other day, might have been it was on this forum, or I may have found it somewhere else, I'll have a look!!!

all I can tell you about mine is it cost the previous owner £323.00 in July 1999 supplied and fitted .

are the original carbs for the 1.7 webers also? can you use carbs off the 400 series cars as they also had a 1.7 carb model?

cheers for the info....

verry cool!!!

Shimon

Orig carbs on the 1.7 are solex's, I'm not sure about 400 carbs, Dai may be able to help there, but I afaik the block are basically the same

440 carb works, is also a bit better in design.

you should change the jets to ensure proper mixture. (use the original B172K ones)

cheers for the reply!

Shimon

ECP sell them.

Well, the Redline is running OK now that I found (when very cold engine) the two bottom nuts on the manifold were loose. When the manifold was warm, the other day when I checked, they seemed ok. However with a cool engine and liberal amounts of WD40 wafting around the engine bay, they became prime suspects.

I have, with a titanic struggle, tightened them up and behold, an even running motor. All I have to do now is to adjust mixture and idle speed. Off to town now for a long thin screw driver.

Make sure you torque them to what haynes says, it'll warp otherwise if it's too tight!!!

I have 440 GL Solex carb in my 340 1.7.

It drives a lot better than with the original one. It's faster, smoother, and i think that even the engine noise it's better (psycological? )

good to see my guesswork was of some help

please take the trouble to go to a garage with a CO tester to adjust your mixture. the 1.7 is a b$tch to set correctly using only your ears...
and dont forget the rubber plug

I'd love to know how to get a torque wrench up behing the manifold. I just about got a flat open-ender in there. I intend to slacken them all again and re torque them on order. Then in spring I'll take the lot off and replace gaskets etc. I'll keep an eye out for a 440 carb.
I'm getting to know the car quite intimately now!
MOT is at rear end of January so will need it right. Demon Tweeks is based here in Wrexham so I might look at their selection. They may have a Weber

My bad, I read carb I'm not sure if torqueing the manifold studs is a nessicary, and without going out to have a look, it's the one I always remember least of, so I'll take your word that it's not going to happen!

Good you got it sorted. I did say file carefully Antikieradio! Well I managed to do it on mine anyway

The new Solex's have a much thicker biscuit and therefore don't warp their bases nearly so easily. They were modified in 1991 so cars from that period and later, ie: the very last off the line shouldn't have that warping problem. Ours (1989) had the thinner one, but even though it was changed quickly by the dealer, I reckon the metal had already changed and several years later it failed. The manifold was only warped a bit and although the car ran perfectly when you waved a blowlamp round the area you could see the gases being sucked in. Filing it cured the problem and made the car that much smoother. I think I also polished up with wet/dry afterwards too.

Luckily if all else fails, ECP sell a brand new Solex for 205+vat.

Torquing the manifold studs is not necessary, as long as they feel snug that's fine, but don't hang off the spanner. Its the carb bolts that its important to do up properly.