Well I think I just found a problem, a guy just told me on another forum:

You can't do the manifold chop on the 5 engine...the exhaust ports are staggered up and down, and the inlet manifold flange and exhaust flange bolt through each other, so this wouldnt work either. Only way is to use a n/a exhaust manifold, and fab the turbo to it...

Looks like thats problem number 1 out of many I suspect!

cheers
Ali

As Chris cleverly pointed out there's no real need for me to have hot air in the car so i'm considering ditching the heater box as I think there might *just* be room for the turbo, is this likely to cause any problems (not taking heat away from the engine anymore) or will it just be the same as not having the heater on usually?
cheers
Ali

the black sound deadening comes off ok if you warm it up with a heat gun, then scrape it off with a wide paint scraper, smells bad though!

Ali wrote:is this likely to cause any problems (not taking heat away from the engine anymore) or will it just be the same as not having the heater on usually?

Do you really want that question answering? It begins with T and ends in WIT

I'd probably either put a custom manifold on the standard engine (to put the turbo in a more RWD-friendly location), or fit a complete GTT lump.

cheers

James

Well the plan is to fit the whole lump really as i've not go idea which kind of power the b14+T will give, its just getting more and more tempting if I can just remove the heater box and bolt the R5 stuff straight on, then the only problem is going to be sorting out fuel lines (won't even need to swap to R5 water pump as its going to be at the other end of the engine) and i'll probably run an alloy tank in the boot anyway so even that shouldn't be much of a problem.
Any ideas how strong the clutches are on the B14?
cheers
Ali

Well I don't know about normal driving, but if you get stuck in traffic on a hot day it'd be usefull for the heater to work to get the hot air outta the engine

From what I gather this car isn't ever gonna be in traffic, so it's not a great concern in that respect.

Fuel lines? Should just bolt in, what with a GTT being carb and all. If you need the heater to help you out in traffic, your cooling system is underperforming.

cheers

James

Yeah after speaking to husky he said the fuel lines won't be anywhere near big enough and i'll need the stuff from the R5, electric fuel pump, pressure regulator etc, i'll get ripping the heater box out later, im still not convinced the turbo will be clear of the bulkhead though,
cheers
Ali

That's what angle grinders are for!

Agree with Foggy about the heater MJ, have a check of your cooling stuff if you need to do this! Anti A/C!

You still think it won't fit under there Ali? You can't tell me a R5 is any wider than the length of our bonnets

Yeah but its more the fact we have a lot of space at the front of our engine bay whereas the engine is pretty tight up against the wing in the R5, if u look at this photo:



the turbo looks like it ends almost another half length of the engine away, if you then go look at a 340 there isn't really that much room between the end of the engine and the bulkhead, plus you can see a pipe is going to be coming out straight in the direction of the bulkhead, only way to find out is going to be trying it though, i've sent an email off to BB tuning asking if they can tell me anything else about turbo'ing a higher compression engine as there is an article by them in the latest retro rides mag all about the R5 lump,
cheers
Ali

I'm talking about once a year, seemed like one of the hottest days, may time, sat stationary on dual carageway. temp guage was only halfway between verticle and the first high temp line, just a bit to high for comfort

Time for a new radiator. Trust me...been there...not worth warping your head over £80 (and that's the 'I need it tomorrow' emergency price). Let me know if you want me to wield spanners for this operation - did it this last summer.

cheers

James

foggy, the r5 gtt runs a high pressure fuel pump same as an injection car, with a boost sensitive regulator, and a return line much bigger than a 340, remember it runs the carb in blow through config so the fuel pressure has to stay 4-6 psi above the boost pressure, and the 5 turbo boys like to run a bit of boost!

Ali, I think you will need to change to a 1.7 bellhousing, as the tdc sensor is in the same place as the r5, and then you can use an r5 clutch with a 1.7 centre plate, the stock b14 has a HUGE flywheel and a slightly odd clutch, I dont think the b14 clutch will take the punnishment, especialy in the drift enviroment, belting the clutch at flat chat to start a drift is hard on the clutch!