what does these coilovers cost?

They are £117 each in Demon Tweeks, i picked them up for £140 the pair direct from Spax at a trade show price.
Adam

@Gulbrandsen:

Any pics of that double leaf suspension? How does it handle?

I'm not running a double leaf spring on mine, i am running single with 40mm lowering blocks and these spax.
Adam

IvanAE86 wrote:@Gulbrandsen:

Any pics of that double leaf suspension? How does it handle?

only some few ones.. The car is really stiff, and it's good for drifting, i believe.. But not for racing, the car almost bounces out of the road, because the dampers cannot handle the force of the leafsprings.. But indeed, try it yourself..

This is my solution for an "adjustable stiffness"


one more..


That's the ones i found now..

Those pics are really tiny! Cant see anything on them
I was afraid they might be too stiff for the weight of the car, in which case a rear ARB is still my prefered solution to reduce roll in the back without getting astronomical springrates.

I can see pics ok, first one is as wide as is posts in this forum ???

Had a problem with my browser apparantly..I got them in full size by opening them in a new window.

But i believe, if i cut the spring that i've added shorter, it would get "softer".. But it is still best to put an coilover/stiff damper in place..

Gulbrandsen_Racing wrote:But i believe, if i cut the spring that i've added shorter, it would get "softer".. But it is still best to put an coilover/stiff damper in place..

With coil springs cutting makes it stiffer, I don't know how it is with leaf springs but I doubt that it would be softer when it is shorter, does anyone know for sure?

By itself a leaf spring is stiffer if shorter - less leverage. But when combined with part of another leaf spring... Things start to get quite complicated.

You cant as such cut a leaf spring down. To stiffen leaf springs what is normaly done is to sandwich a number of spings together.

classicswede wrote:You cant as such cut a leaf spring down. To stiffen leaf springs what is normaly done is to sandwich a number of spings together.

But if the added leafspring is shorter than mine, it would get "softer" than with my solution.. Also because my solution is adjustable, i can move the bolts you see, nearer to the center of the spring, and then it would get softer.

But it is still better to change the damper to a stiff one.. If you have the money..!

I dont see the point in doing much to the rear of a 340/360.

Sort the front with a proper spring rate and damping to match, ditch the antiroll bar then all most folk will need to do at the back is fit decent (dont mean hard) dampers. Rear unsprung weight is low compared to live axle RWD models and lower than some FWD so this is not difficult stuff. Just a little more control is needed and you have superb traction and control. Oh how I love driving these babies on mile after mile of sheet ice. What a rush. Just as good as a Manta or Sunneam TI.

Some people will need to mod the tramp bar(s) depending on the terrain or power combination. The infamous Cortina MkIII rear suspension voided bush used to sell for a fiver and fitted the tramp bar. If you have massive power and have tramp bars each side then maybe fit it as standard but with std single tramp bar it is far far too stiff: hacksaw it down to size.

BTW, the rear geometry of the 300 gives the same stabilising effects as the Weissachs axle on the Porsche 928 except without the complexity and expense. Dont f4ck with perfection.

The guy with the 'helper' rear spring bolted on needs more rebound damping. If using Koni just dial it in: the adj is nearly all rebound. (The rest are allsh1t anyway.)