Get an engineering shop to make one? Try Lowtension too...they seemed to have a range of such helpful things when I called them.

cheers

James

Ok... been away for a few days.. and this pops up again!

Firstly, Foggy is right about the 10-180 ohm senders/gauges, so all is good there with VDO as long as you get the same temperature range on both your sensor and your gauge.

Wouter, are you sure theres no oil flow at the pressure switch point? I have no clue about the internal flows etc, just thats where I've tapped my oil temp gauge, mine takes about 10-15 mins to get off of cold and up to temp, could explain why mine takes so long. Mine is off an extension too, and I have been worried about the weight, I did make a bracket, but havn't yet fitted it (and won't, what with that engine now being dead )
http://www.ecs.soton.ac.uk/~clc202/gauge/index.htm

Has any of you spoken to John? From what I remember, he fitted Hugs successfully a little while ago.

Of course there is no flow at the branch I made for sensor and oil pressure sender...it's a dead end. Basically when the oil fills the branch it doesn't really change. It takes some time to show any sensible readings, but it's good enough for me.

After I put the turbo on I will put external oil filter too. Then the temp sensor moves into the actual filter housing I will make. Then it's on the flow.

The branch is not too heavy. I've had one several years on my olds 455cid for pressure sender and warning light. It's still there.

I would keep the branch as short as possible though, for safety. Oil normally takes 10-15 mins to heat up enough to show a temp reading on a road tune NA engine.

cheers

James

Morning children - egg and face are appropriate.

I visited the stealers yesterday and picked up a 360 sump plug (3224662) and a 200/700/900 plug (948187) and guess what - they are different threads.

The 360 is definitely M18x1.5 - and the 2/7/9 is definitely 3/4"x16UNF The conclusion is that oil temp sensors (200 series accessories) are indeed 3/4"
This explains why Carl finds his a little too big (19mm as near as damn'it).

(Humourists all repeat "we all wish ours was too big").

When I measured the sensor that Steve now has I used a thread gauge and a die to check - it wasn't actually a full die but a thread chaser so I was really reading pitch not diameter (and M1.5 and 16tpi are very close).
I had assumed all sump plugs were M18 - so I saw M18 because I was expecting to see it!!! Re-learn rule no.1 Never assume.

Steve - I will PM you to sort what you want to do about your sensor.

Well at least that's cleared that up. Cheers for the info Mac.

I'm gonna see if I can get hold of a 3/4"x16 to M18x1.5 adaptor from somewhere I think.

not wise to put that in the sump plug location then.. it'll be scraping over the road before you know it...

PS on the other hand bodejodel has been known to use a spark plug as temporary sump plug after he lost (???) his original one

afaik it never touched the road.

I wouldnt be using it in the standard hole. I'm gonna drill a new hole on the side and use an M18x1.5 boss I bought for a few quid the other day

Unless I can find a 3/4" boss, which I havent been able to do so far!

Make one! I'd imagine the uni engineering department would lend you a tap!

Just been looking at the taps on ebay and they're only a few quid, but getting access to some decent equipment and then to a welder is a pain in the bum. Might just take it down an engineering shop with the sensor and say 'I want this screwed in there' and see what they say.

You might get away with tapping the pan itself. Given that it's ally, it's relatively thick walled.

cheers

James

Probably not best to think in terms of welding a boss in (+ if you do it would be easier to weld an aluminium boss into an alloy sump rather than a brass boss which is what would be commercially available - you would probably have to make an alloy boss anyway).

What might be easier as a diy proposition is to make a stepped, threaded boss (in brass) with a backnut and plain locknut fitted through an untapped hole in the wall of the sump, (with copper washers either side). The boss could be drilled and tapped to take whatever thread you like.

Also, to state the obvious - make sure you find a piece of flat sump wall that would be under the oil level ! (if you go higher you you will measure sump air temp and probably foul a crank lobe).

Mac

I do remember seeing in VDO catalog such sensors that do have temp and pressure in same sensor, that would be quite nice solution to get one sensor less

Evnin' all,

Been mooching about on the Siemens VDO website - can't find your combined sensors jtbo but I have found lots of luverly temp.sensors with M18x1.5 threads. The code 801/4/41 seems to indicate Temp sensor without warning contact, common ground/range to 150c/41.

Their current catalogue does not show a sensor with a 3/4" thread (but it may have been Volvo OE only) However it does show a sensor with 150c range with M18x1.5 thread with the 'B' (bent over) connector.

The part no. is 323-801-012-003D but this has a 15mm thread/'bulb' length.

The 200 series sensor is nearer 30mm. VDO do have 29mm length sensors in M18x1.5 but their range is only to 120c (323-801-001-022K and N)

The 150c and 120c ranges seem to have differing check resistances but all seem to be compatible.

There is also lots of info on oil pressue senders as well.

Go to :- www.siemensvdo.co.uk/downloads/downloads.htm

Select Topic - replacement parts, sensors, product catalogue,

From search result select - sensors for instrumentation - catalogue,

All will be revealed (it's in adobe pdf. format). Havn't found the prices yet but it looks like suitable sensors for a 360 sump are available.

Mac.