Tried all sorts of things but still can't get em open... Any ideas, before I drive this thing to the scrappie - nah... I wouldn't do that - I'm addicted now

in nessy on occasions a *really*strong seal holds the door shut, and it feels like it is locked even though the handle is up. to cure, get into the car, get someone on the outside to hold then handle up, and boot the door from the inside where the outer handle is, if it were on the inside.

If you're wondering why I havent been around much lately, I have something to confess: Sadly, I've got an 'R' reg Mondeo TD Ghia now... Not the fastest car (in fact, I reckon power to weight is worse than my 1.4 345, which is much lighter and only ~15bhp less powerful!) but it's comfy, quieter, more reliable, and cheap to run... Not to mention the fact that it came with a very good factory-fit stereo, Electric windows all round, Aircon, Central Locking, and other less useful features (like heated, electric mirrors...? How often do those need adjusting...) Sad, I know, but I'm still going to do up the 345 and get it thorugh it's MOT. I'm sure someone will want it.

But it has no sunroof! At least it's the same colour as my 345... I like Silver cars.


And it's UGLY!

what size is that td? 1.6 or something? thats aweful power

how much was she? i'm guessing about £2k?

It's a 1.8TD producing a grand 'ol 88bhp... lol

It's got 75k on the clock and cost just over £1700... It's also more expensive to insure than the volvo, being group 9.

It's worth bearing in mind of course the famous 'BHP is a function of RPM' thing again....so using typical peak-power-rpm points, that 88 bhp would be more like 105 in a petrol car. Torque is the key factor...

Shame you never got the 345 running to the point where you could drive it...it would have been a fairly damn unique car!

cheers

James

Well, it's a project, and I'm not giving up on it yet. It's only got 46k on the clock, and there's very little rust on it. I'll try and reverse it out of the garage and take some pics of it sometime over the next couple of weeks. It could make a good first car for my gf, otherwise I'm sure somebody will take it off my hands once I've finished sorting it out. I don't plan on getting rid of it in the very near future as I've got nothing else I want to put in the garage anyway

It is nice to drive something a little more refined, though FWD does take getting used to

i would think that the rev counter would go where the clock is

different dashboard mate

Why do manufacturers these days believe people will want A/C instead of a sunroof though...? I like sunroofs, and Aircon is really not all that useful in the UK

The 345 still runs (Haven't had any petrol for a while, so I had to pick up a can to start her again) - in fact, after a month and a half, it still starts first time

Azurael wrote:Why do manufacturers these days believe people will want A/C instead of a sunroof though...? I like sunroofs, and Aircon is really not all that useful in the UK

I agree! I'd always really want aircon and a sunroof in a newer car, so you have more of an option! If you're talking about 300s though, sod the sunroof and give me aircon. Though I wouldn't mind so much if my sunroof actually worked...

Azurael


hello!

I've also got a 343 of the same type as yours. Mines an 1980 V reg... with the 1E engine type!!!! ( the engine classes are 1E, 2E, 3E , 4E.

The 1 2 and 3 E engines can't run on unleaded. only the 4e engines can. However, if you have the older engines, you can use normal unleaded but you must add an additive ( I have details on the best three,,, data is from a research proejct by MIRA ( Motor Industry Research Association, based near London... they have a test track andlabs and work for a few car companies... ) PLUS an octane booster to get the fuel to 98 octane. The engine needs both the octane boost AND the additive to protect the valve seats. Dont be tempted to run the car on super unleaded as although it will be fine initially, eventually the lead coating on the valve and valve seat will wear down ( called the lead memory ) and once that happens you start getting valve seat recession.... not a good thing.....

However, it sounds like you have had an engine swap.... what happened to the old engine? Im sure it could be salvaged for parts at least

Anyway...if the engine has a large circular dish air filter, then its a later engine... maybe 3 or 4E. The 343 and 345s ( before the face lift in 1982 ( all 340s from this point onwards have the same face ) have an air filter mounted to the side of the engine is a cylinder. The air filter is completely different and is a similar type to that used by the volvo 66 and Daf 55 and 66 models.

Externally, apart from the air filter, the 1 2 3 and 4 engines all look the same. If you have keen eye, the water pump is different and from 1984 onwards, the cars had electric fans. Before this, the fan is driven by the same belt as the water pump and the altenator.

so how goes the restoration?

do you have any pics etc?

Im very interested to find out more about your car!!!

Shimon

I'd be interested in the car if you dont want it!!

what fuel are you using at the moment?

oh hang on.... you had an engine swap right.... so its a late engine therefore no probs with unleaded....

does the engine have the breakerless Renix ignition or the breaker ignition? ( ie is the distributor empty apart from the rotor arm OR are there metal pieces inside.... if you already know lots about cars. I apologise for the simple description )

Shimon

I'm not sure what type of ignition it has, but it's definitely the later type of engine with electric fan, large circular air filter, etc and we were told to run it on unleaded following the replacement. I have no idea what happened to the original engine, since I wasn't responsible for it's replacement.

More info to come shortly & some pictures, but I haven't had much time lately.

If it has a conventional 'tube' coil, it's the old type. If it has a coil which looks more like a mains transformer attached to the Renix unit....its Renix

cheers

James