I'm a big Volvo 300 fan, I have my 340 GL (1984. manufacturing year) inherited from my father who is not more alive. So you can maybe imagine how much I love my car.
This is a great community.
I am also going to do some rust protection on my little volvo. I am going to use some stuff from Germany for the underside. The "Mike sander's Korrosionsschutzfett" (http://www.mikesander.co.uk) and "Brantho-Korrux 3in1" (http://www.branth-chemie.de/3in1_e.htm). I have heard they are very good, i hope they are.
Very useful pics those. I was planning to ask if anyone knew all the relevant waxing points, so I can fill my whole car with Bilt-Hamber Dynax50 cavity wax.
Furthemore, I need a 2 post lift! There was one on Retro Rides for £50 which would have made jobs like underbody wax treatment a piece of cake. Shame it's in Somerset and weighs nearly a ton.
filthyjohn wrote:Furthemore, I need a 2 post lift! There was one on Retro Rides for £50 which would have made jobs like underbody wax treatment a piece of cake. Shame it's in Somerset and weighs nearly a ton.
is it still there?!
I have the green book of how to waxoyl a 300 here too, that might be helpful... though I think Mac posted it once? Certainly there is a lot more info for the tech section!
Think it may be gone but if you get in quick and can pick it up tomorrow you might get it.
I REALLY want it but can't get it from that far away. It's a crime, I have a perfect sized bay for it in the unit, with enough room to work round it and everything!
Very useful, but what's the difference between the arrows, arrows with a circle, arrows with a circle containing a triangle and arrows with a circle containing a cross?
Pete Farrel is right about the rear chassis T joins. there are no drain holes here to let out condensation and internal ventilation is blocked by a baffle . Would putting in drain holes merit an mot fail ?
Luckily I found this weak point before the rust ate through but Volvo should be wrapped on the knuckles for such poor design!
is it still there?! 
