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Posted: 05 Apr 2008 05:08 pm
by kesk
Hello,
Just wanted to say hello. I am Kemal from Bosnia.
I'm a big Volvo 300 fan, I have my 340 GL (1984. manufacturing year) inherited from my father who is not more alive. So you can maybe imagine how much I love my car.
This is a great community.
I am also going to do some rust protection on my little volvo. I am going to use some stuff from Germany for the underside. The "Mike sander's Korrosionsschutzfett" (
http://www.mikesander.co.uk) and "Brantho-Korrux 3in1" (
http://www.branth-chemie.de/3in1_e.htm). I have heard they are very good, i hope they are.
Sorry for my bad English.
Posted: 05 Apr 2008 06:52 pm
by MJ
Hello and welcome to V3M!
Posted: 05 Apr 2008 07:34 pm
by trabitom99
Welcome, Kemal! Visited Bosnia a few years ago (in a 300) and was overwhelmed by the hospitality!
Mike Sander's Korrosionsschutzfett has a very good reputation in the classic car scene in Germany, I'm sure you've made a good choice.
Tom
Posted: 06 Apr 2008 11:13 pm
by kesk
Thank you, feeling great here,
This site is great, I got some inspiration for me. I have put the performance parts from Dai already to my wishlist.
The uprated propshaft is a musthave, I killed already four of them (and two clutch output shafts) in 80.000km. Is this is a record?

Re: Rust treatment and repairs
Posted: 21 Nov 2008 12:09 am
by trabitom99
Duvel78 wrote:I asked a FULL Dinitrol treatment and of course repairs where rust COULD be / could appair / and was
The bill was expensive but the result is nice.
It's the first step before a whole restoration of the car!
If anyone is planning to do something similar - these scans might be helpful:
The resolution on Photobucket isn't that great, unfortunately ...
Cheers,
Tom
Posted: 21 Nov 2008 03:45 am
by nomashedswede
VERY useful, Tom - where do you get this stuff ?!?!?!

Posted: 21 Nov 2008 09:52 am
by Chris_C
nomashedswede wrote:VERY useful, Tom - where do you get this stuff ?!?!?!

+1... Tom, can these go in the technical section please

Posted: 21 Nov 2008 10:19 am
by trabitom99
No point keeping these things to yourself, like Mr Scrooge
Chris, I don't think I can post in the tech section. I'll email you the scan, that way you can put it up in better quality for a print out ...
Tom
Posted: 21 Nov 2008 12:02 pm
by filthyjohn
Very useful pics those. I was planning to ask if anyone knew all the relevant waxing points, so I can fill my whole car with Bilt-Hamber Dynax50 cavity wax.
Posted: 21 Nov 2008 12:03 pm
by filthyjohn
Furthemore, I need a 2 post lift! There was one on Retro Rides for £50 which would have made jobs like underbody wax treatment a piece of cake. Shame it's in Somerset and weighs nearly a ton.
Posted: 21 Nov 2008 12:07 pm
by Chris_C
filthyjohn wrote:Furthemore, I need a 2 post lift! There was one on Retro Rides for £50 which would have made jobs like underbody wax treatment a piece of cake. Shame it's in Somerset and weighs nearly a ton.

is it still there?!
I have the green book of how to waxoyl a 300 here too, that might be helpful... though I think Mac posted it once? Certainly there is a lot more info for the tech section!
Posted: 21 Nov 2008 12:24 pm
by filthyjohn
http://retrorides.proboards86.com/index ... 729&page=1
Think it may be gone but if you get in quick and can pick it up tomorrow you might get it.
I REALLY want it but can't get it from that far away. It's a crime, I have a perfect sized bay for it in the unit, with enough room to work round it and everything!

Posted: 21 Nov 2008 10:30 pm
by MJ
Very useful, but what's the difference between the arrows, arrows with a circle, arrows with a circle containing a triangle and arrows with a circle containing a cross?
Posted: 22 Nov 2008 12:03 am
by Chris_C
Which noozle to use I'd imagine
rust repairs
Posted: 24 Nov 2008 05:34 pm
by srtames
Pete Farrel is right about the rear chassis T joins. there are no drain holes here to let out condensation and internal ventilation is blocked by a baffle . Would putting in drain holes merit an mot fail ?
Luckily I found this weak point before the rust ate through but Volvo should be wrapped on the knuckles for such poor design!
regards, Steve