The things that fail are the rubber bushings between the shaft and the tube...not sure if you can see them.

cheers

James

i dont think its the engine mounts, when i got mine the mounts were shot, but the bad noise only happened between 3000-4000rpm, peaking at 3500. But check the Sump to make sure its not resting on that crossbar, if it is and the r/w inspector notices, expect to need new mounts, as i failed my original r/w cause of this.

roadworthy!

which is great
but no solution for the vibration. The guys who rw'd think its somthing at the engine, i cant figure it out anymore.

it makes keeping up with traffic awfully hard

0 - 20km slow gear change 15 - 40 etc

especially up hill, like i shift and it drops down to 1500.

i know you guys have suggested things, but why cant any of the mechanics put it down to anything?

It doesnt *seem* to be there when i have the clutch in, but im sure ive reved it sometimes and it does it with clutch in!! its a real head mess around.

anythoughts on this crankshaft spigot bearing ??
:\

thanks for all the help so far. i dont really know :|
cant explain any better


t:)
(it had new engine mounts a 20,000km ago)
]i positive it was somthing in the drive line, now not so sure

by the way, ive had a bit of a running a bit hot incident since.

driving down teh freeway home, thoguht the car was making strange noises at 2k and up. just a quiet barbling sort of noise, could be a bearing or a loose pipe that sort of thing, nothing serious. got home popped the bonnet, as i walked psat the radiator refill bottle i casually tapped it and a high pressure escaping noise started happening., then water spewed out of the cap which was screwed down.

Anyway it turns out i had a hole in the radiator. still havnt figured out the rattling, apparently the new mech reckons its exhaust related???. and im due for a timing belt change, last one at 128k, now at 196

Bad luck on the radiator

The exhaust rattle is highly plausible - the downpipes can rub here and there, and that's before you get onto stuff like missing hangers, etc.

The timing belt is fairly easy on these - just remember to align the aux shaft too (it affects the ignition timing - which it doesn't on 700s and 900s). Fit a new tensioner too!

I think the giveaway here is the mileage. These are seriously tough cars, and the engines will go on forever, but 200k is a high mileage for anything, and in general a 300 isn't built out of quite the same stuff as a 2/7/900 - in other words, things are bound to be failing by that mileage - but fix them up, and she'll run for another 100k at least.

cheers

James

like the economy in my car this thread is soon running out :) (396).

What Rubber bushings in the torque tube do you mean?
We hav taken gearbox off and strangley the allon key shaft clamps where welded on (a little spot for each clamp onto the spline cover thing). The clamps have broken free of these however. This welding certainly does not look factory.. but cannot think that it would cause such vibration. The spline seems to be in good condition.

the torque tube will come off soon and there are 3 bearings in it?? how do you get into these, especially the middle one.

the car has done 199,000 now, good idea to change clutch while im at it?

funny that when the gearbox/diff came out, there was no speed sensor on it, i guess its on the wheel or somthing.
Please let me know if there is anything else i should replace while im at it.

Thanks :)

Well this is very much second hand information....never done it myself. The bushings that fail are the ones which suspend the prop in the torque tube....presumably the noise is the prop rubbing on the tube. As far as I'm aware it's a case of a complete replacement.

While you're there, check the state of the gearshift linkage (mine cost ~£300 to have fixed in a hurry last summer ), and as you say - best to do the clutch.

cheers

James

torque tube off.

but torque tube only has 2 bearings in it, there is none clutch end. though both my haynes manuals show there being one there. some of the shaft isa little burred clutch end. this may be hte problem.

ayone know if later models onlyhad 2 bearings??? I cant find any wear marks inside the tube where the bearing should be, butim thtinking it is somehow the result of dodgy repairs.

i will ask volvsaab tomorow

No idea there, sorry dude! It'd be good if you could document your findings when you're done - this is obviously a potential failure point for all 360s, so more information that is currently out there would be great.

cheers

James

vibration gone!
much better

all itwas was my torque tube whih was missing 1 bearing and had some dodgy machining (tapering) done for some reason??

still a few issues with exhaust mounting brcket, should be alble to work out an alternative. The gear lever thingy seems to have been slightly bent as the torque tube/gear box was reattached and jamed the gear rod at the top of the tunnel (by accident).

At the moment i cant select 5th without putting heaps of muscle into it, cause the gear rod is hitting the exhaust mounting U bracket.. etc etc.

more explanation later i guess.,

but its running great nw :)

Be careful of that linkage - they like to snap!

cheers

James

slid my tail into a curb :P

= one wheels like like this (L) \--------\ (R)
------------------------------------^ Damanged wheel

Im thinking that the point where the hub mounts to te de dion axle has been bent, hopefully thats all it is.
itss not on an angle anything like picture shown, just slightly leaning in.

If anyone knows anything else that could have bent?

The leaf spring is on a slight angle with it, this fits with the brackety thing.

it was a slow accident

Doh! I'm not at all sure what will have been damaged...I guess you just have to take it apart and see!

cheers

James