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Re: Knock/Dragging near/at full lock at low speed...

Posted: 03 Apr 2010 08:55 pm
by Chris_C
I've worn OEM volvo bearings in 20,000 miles on my silly wheels, I dread to think what cheap ones would have been like! If this is the problem, get Timkin ones they use a different hardening process on the shells.

Re: Knock/Dragging near/at full lock at low speed...

Posted: 17 Apr 2010 02:05 am
by CBA
I figured it out, the bearing is worn, that goes without saying, but the dragging... it does it worse when theres pressure on the inside (right) tyre when turning right (hard to put pressure on the right wheel when turning right, needs road to be uneven, that;s why it only happens sometimes...
Its rubbing on the bar at the back of the wheel, not the rollbar, the wheel either turns too far to the right, or this bar is bent, or even the whole front suspension is bent.. any Ideas - anyone had this?

Going to check the manual too, since I cant be bothered taking the wheel off yet, just don't turn too much for time being i suppose.

Re: Knock/Dragging near/at full lock at low speed...

Posted: 20 Apr 2010 12:02 am
by Ride_on
Don't forget there are 2 bearings and inner and outer.

Sounds like you are saying it is touching the radius arm, really should not happen. Is it centred at the back in the mounting, are the bush 'holders' gone? Are the wheels turning too much in one direction, are the tracking adjustments even?..count the exposed threads. Are you on standard rims/correct tyres?

Re: Knock/Dragging near/at full lock at low speed...

Posted: 22 Apr 2010 01:47 am
by CBA
radius arm... yes the arm is straight, the wheel fouls it but not always, Will check out the bushes - I know I have a few bad bushes as it is.

Re: Knock/Dragging near/at full lock at low speed...

Posted: 07 May 2010 11:36 pm
by Ride_on
Any update? The radius arm is very strong and I've never seen it bend, usually the chassis or rear mounting will bend first. The radius arm bush holders do get quite corroded and so it can sit in funny positions. Possibly more likely is the front suspension crossmember could be corroded/bent from road strikes and/or jacking, or the lower suspension arm bush is worn/loose.

I've had cars that the suspension was fairly straight but pulled to one side, think it was the rear axle bending problem. So if your car is not pulling maybe something wrong is compensating. :?

Re: Knock/Dragging near/at full lock at low speed...

Posted: 09 May 2010 12:28 am
by CBA
Well, I said the tyres were out of round at some point, they were very out of round! so much they were the only reson for the fouling, they were fouling the cup that the radius arm bolts into. fitted new tyres and full lock in both directions is fine, but still with the (suspected strut bearings) knocking on tight right handers.

so nothing is bent, the tyres were pretty evenly worn when they came off, apart from the right hand one, it had been left flat at some time (crazed rubber etc), the other is now the spare (Manually fitted with levers sm23) (proud of that!).

hmmm. the strut bearings are they repairable? - clean it up a bit/new ball-bearings/oversize somethings... make it servicable for as little money as possible?

Re: Knock/Dragging near/at full lock at low speed...

Posted: 09 May 2010 09:39 pm
by Ride_on
The strut bearing at the top of the strut is a seperate part that can be replaced, but there maybe info somewhere on here about where to buy them. Often the problem is the bearing holder (or top spring cap) is corroded and split, again NLA, should be able to get scrap ones. Mine exhibited a problem where you turned full lock in a certain direction and there after the steering pulled in that direction until the opposite lock was applied. I think it was a result of the stiffer shocks I had fitted, but 360 front suspension gets a muich harder time than the 340.