i doubt that's the original alternator, this looks like a later model with the voltage regulator built in.
that housing is definatly cracked though, only reason for it to crack there and with the bearing cover coming off is a poor rebuild job (not pressing in the bearing correctly or with excessive force)

Ride_on wrote:The mountings look the same as a B200K/E.

That's good to know. The alternator part numbers in the Volvo catalogue change again with the switch-over from B19 to B200 so I was aiming for a replacement part that was just that little bit older. But if the mountings are the same, I doubt there'd be any problem with a later generator.

Ride_on wrote:I just got a reconditioned 55A replacement for my 45A B200K unit (reconned after 200k miles) for £35 delivered. There are a few of these on eBay and not much demand. I just waited for one to go 'make offer' and jumped in with a cheeky bid.
I'd send you mine but I'm sure you could find one locally.

Thanks for the offer! I nabbed one for 79€ delivered. Tried and tested (apparently) and I can send it back if it doesn't work.

volvodspec wrote:i doubt that's the original alternator, this looks like a later model with the voltage regulator built in.
that housing is definatly cracked though, only reason for it to crack there and with the bearing cover coming off is a poor rebuild job (not pressing in the bearing correctly or with excessive force)

Well, the Bosch number on the current alternator is 0 120 400 932 which was only produced until May 1982 according to the Bosch "ecat" so it could well still be the original one. The voltage regulator is connected to the carbon brush holder via a cable.

At some time in its life the car had a small shunt at the front (it has a repainted lower panel with the fog light holes from later 360s) maybe the alternator casing got damaged then? If it has had a rebuild, it was done earlier than 140.000km (I have the Volvo service history from then on) which would be unusual.

These "surprises" you get with old cars eh, all fine as long as you're not miles away from home

Tom

.... and how old were you in May '82 ;-?

Not very Every alternator has the right to crumble at 33 years of age!

Tom

OK, the "new" alternator is up and running, with 14V arriving at the battery terminals with the lights, rear window heater, fan, foglights etc turned on. The carbon brush holder now has the voltage regulator built in, I've left the old one fitted to the inner wing, just to remind me of how it used to be

Anyway, here are the pictures:
Regulator and carbon brushes (8mm long, should be good for a few more kms)



The condition of the slip rings:



Alternators "new vs old " (Bosch 0 120 489 065 and Bosch 0 120 400 932):




One problem that I hadn't reckoned with: this car doesn't have a drivebelt tensioner for the alternator. Replacing the alternator on my '88 360 a few years back was much easier, but on this car we had to ajust the tension manually with a crowbar - I'm not really sure how else to do it!

Fitted some winter tyres on Hercules alloys while we were at it, the original Michelin summer tyres on the steelies were from 2001. The Vredestein Snowtracs are from 2007, so not exactly fresh, but 4-5mm of tread should be OK to be getting on with. The 13" alloys aren't quite fitting to the model year (AFAIK they came out in '84 along with the 360 saloons) but I'm not too fussed, it's legal and can be changed pretty quickly.



Yes I know the car isn't standing great, the axle stand is just for security, there's no real weight on it ...

The next trip (a repeat effort after limping home from the last one) will be at the end of September - lets see how the car gets on with a 700km round trip.

Cheers

Tom

Sounds like the tensioner is just missing, often the main hinge bolt is enough to hold it on torque.

Hello Tom, mine has been running for a year with a jubilee clip for a tensioner. The tensioner bolt broke so I just fitted a jubilee clip instead with the nut from the tensioner to hold the clip in place as an extra bit of security. I did get a new bolt, but I haven't got round to fitting it yet, although I did keep the small block of metal it screws through, which is presumably missing on your car. Sometimes in cold/wet weather the belts slip a bit and the red ignition light comes on but a blip on the accelerator peddle (in neutral) gets the system running wickedly well again....

I'm sorry, I've been using the wrong terminology. The tensioner is there, it's the adjusting screw that's missing from it on earlier cars. Here are the pics from the parts catalogue:

B19:


B200:


Earlier cars don't have the adjusting screw (part 10 on the second pic), which means you need to need to pull at the alternator, making sure the drivebelts are tight, and tighten the screw (part 7, first pic) holding the top of the alternator in place at the same time. With the later versions, you can just use the tensioner adjusting screw slowly add tension to the drivebelts - much easier!

Tom

yes it's much easyer on the later versions, luckaly it's an easy retrofit, though many of the later style tensioners have the adjusting bolt rusted rock solid wich is why i did it slightly different for my B230 engine that's in the 343..


all stainless with the correct anti-seize SS grease this is a great solution

Good idea, Anjo! I wish I'd thought of that earlier - I think I have the later tensioner in my cellar somewhere. Never mind, maybe next time ...

Tom

Fitted a (so-called) "GT steering wheel 284590" on Saturday:



I love it to bits: it's the same one that was fitted (as standard) to our old 1982 343 Junior (otherwise a pretty basic car), and it brings back memories from the nineties:



Not that I have any such plans for this car.

Tom

trabitom99 wrote:

I do soooo like the S dash.

Me too ... It desperately needs a radio though. And a working clock would be useful

Tom

Just finished some more random work such as clutch ajustment according to "green book" measurements and thank goodness for my old external voltage regulator! More on that later.



The play was around 11mm (the value for RHD cars)


so set it to the correct LHD value, something between 7.5mm and 8mm...



... and now all is well Clutch pedal distance from pedal to floor mat raised from 11-12cm to around 15cm.



The second job: refitting the C-pillar panel. One of the two sheet nuts holding the screws in place had disintegrated, they look a bit like this close up ...



... meaning the cover was only held in place by the top screw. The part is NLA at Volvo and I couldn't find anything on the internet willing to sell me a 9mm nut in tiny quantities.



However, the parts catalogue is a great help, the only other place part number 3269355 is used on my DLS is for fitting the external voltage regulator to the inner wing! Since I no longer need it due to the newer alternator: off goes the voltage regulator and out comes the nut.



That's better!



A most satisfying lunch break, and we're all set for the repeat test run on Sunday! Let's see if we get further than 190km this time around.

Cheers

Tom

Hi Tom.
I have a spare clock but i don't know if it works or not.
Your welcome to test it if you want.
Cheers Mark.