Right, long gap in comms, but I've been struck down by idling difficulties on the Hyundai which I can't fathom out. The general lie of the land is as follows:
Anyway, the first thing perhaps foolishly, was to check the EGR valve in case it was blocked or broken, but removing it for a clean out and test showed it was working fine. The car is australasian spec i.e. it doesn't have cruise control which the UK models had as standard. The latter had an electric motor which rotated the throttle vane whereas my car has a good old fashioned bicycle brake cable doing the job instead. I took the opportunity to tweak the cable tension via the adjustment plate shown below and replace one of the thin EGR hoses which was cracked.
I then got some MAF cleaner for the mass air flow sensor which is the big thing hanging loose here:
but that didn't make any difference and in the chaos I actually broke the fuel vapour recovery solenoid which is shown below:
However, that was eventually repaired, I think, with a generous dose of superglue ;-0 ;-0
This has been broken (by me, I assume) at least once in the past already so there's a second-hand spare coming in the post. I then thought it might be the throttle position sensor which is indicated by the arrow below. It can also be seen better in the top photo on the left. Anyway it all seemed to be spot on after a bit of adjustment.
Ok, coolio Joe, but no progress to show, so far anyway. I then thought it might be the idle air control (IAC) solenoid, which is shown in the picture below (note the epic Mitsubishi logo) because the mixture on idle is incredibly chokingly rich. *cough*
This beastie sits in the hole below the throttle which is shown below. Said hole was, despite appearances, cleaned out with copious amouts of carb cleaner, etc.
The IAC valve itself was opened and given a clean-out and and oil-up. The resistance of the coil is about 40 Ohms while it should be 30 Ohms, but I have no idea if that's a problem. Anyway, there's a cheappie spare from China coming in the post in case its the issue, given that the original item dates almost from the Ming Dynasty ;-0 ;-0
As indicated by the red arrows above, the curious pointed protrusion moves in and out to open and close the air channel which bypasses the throttle. The movement is driven by a screw device which itself is driven by the core that rotates in the field of the solenoid (as shown). If this sounds barmy, it certainly is, as the (
warning: * LOUD * ) video shows below.
https://streamable.com/liawg9
I love the rattle it makes when the protrusion pulls itself in ;-0 ;-0
I don't know, but it seems to be doing its thing (??), so I am thinking it is probably working OK, but a test run shows that the car still stalls when its warm on idle. Answers on a postcard....