Also think detonation is your biggest enemy. Especially with the limited options you have when using a renix unit.
Maybe a low budget diy water/meth injection kit might be a good idea. Maybe use a intank pump from a 240/740 or an airpump but those can be expensive. Cold start injector or just a normal injector. Hobbs switch or map sensor to swith it on and off.

If there is a petrol station near you which sells E85 that would be great!

Talked to a guy from Sweden who turbocharged his B14 (MS as spark) also grenaded his pistons since he used a very agressive (n/a) spark table. Had similar damage to one or more pistons as you had. Though he did drive another 1000+ klm including a trackday or two. Engine sounded horrible, like it would/could explode within seconds. Still running strong despite of the damage. Has been swapped for something nicer.
Some people say the oiling of a Volvo B14 piston is a lot better than in the R5 engines, can´t remember if this was comparing a n/a B14 to a n/a or turbo R5 engine.
Pistons and rods should handle quite some power. Head design is as ugly as it can get in almost all the different engines. It´s just that some are slightly less crappy.
Thing with these differences is that it's all hear say. For the better and the worse.

The B14 cam also should work pretty nice with a turbocharger, quite a hot cam for a turbo engine. Much better than a stock R5 turbo cam.

Because of the head design and especially the combustionchamber they are sensitive to blowing out a headgasket. They also show some strange piston and bore wear and can get pistonslap because of this.

Think it's a really cool idea. The higher cr should also make it a lot more fuel efficient. Bigger turbine might be a good idea to keep the exhaust back pressure as wel as egt's down.

iirc Haynes or another of those publishers has a tuning guide which is helpful in tuning A-series engines. The book includes some interesting info on the minimum required diameter of inlet and exhaust valves/channals etc. The A-series does look quite a bit like a B14 although the B14 (bottom) should be considerably stronger.

To be honest, nowadays there's no real excuse for playing with carbs and hobbs switches to trigger extra injectors unless you really want to (for fun). And by fun, I mean enjoying practicing engine swaps If you want the thing to last, get a programmable engine management system (the like of MS are super-cheap), and get accurate control of what's happening. As I said earlier on, you can get away with murder strength-wise if your map is spot-on. The threshold of damage is way, way higher with a 'clean' burn than if you've got ping / detonation.

I also have no idea why the guy in Sweden wouldn't run a turbo spark map. That's plain stupid. MS even has a table generator! It's like doing all the hard work, then not bothering to do the "easy" bit!

cheers

James

The hobbs switch/map sensor was meant to control the water/meth injection not as some sort of prehistoric fuel injection setup to compensate for lack of fuel. Using MS to control your water injection kit really would be overdoing things. With what he is using atm that would be one of the things which can make his setup more reliable and bullet proof since it's not like renix is very flexible.

When looking at the benefits of modern efi systems and how cheap and reliable they are (can be) I completely agree. Although the TS has already made a choice considering he is using a carb atm. That's why I was thinking along the line of what he has, not of what he could have;)

Why he was running a n/a map, I think he was just lazy.... and wanted to have some fun (engine swap;) )

Ah, fair play, I mis-read.

cheers

James

There was an R5GTT in PPC mag running 280hp on LPG, reliably. Think it was on emerald management with custom injection inlet manifold, but that could be replicated on a budget.

I've been thinking of using a MegaSquirt, but that means taking the car off the road again. I'd also love to build a really strong engine, but to take advantage of it I'd need a new turbo, intake and exhaust manifold etc etc. Just don't have the time right now.

Anyway tiny update.

I don't really like the fact that most lowering blocks don't positively locate the axial on the spring, so I made some that do.



Covers for the struts to keep the shit out.

I just tryed sending a pm to brick340 and its says he doesnt exist anymore :/ well this was what i was going to send so if he reads it or if others can help


Hello

Im planning on converting my own struts into coilies, they are being shot blasted now. did you use 2.5" conversion kit with a sleeve?

I was also wondering what you did with the top mounts? Im only planning on using gas struts i think, nothing adjustable yet, so thought about using the current top mounts.

This is a massive learning curve for me so feel free to explain things as simple as possible

thank you very much
chris morel

Evoman, have a gander at this if its any help, found it while looking into camber adjustment.

http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... unt#p72261

full coilover setup with camber adjustment.

thank you, very helpful

Haha thats an old thread!! Mine too. Chris when the weather gets better i will show you the coilovers on the car.
Adam

adam, cool, the legs are still at the shotblasters, going to ring them tomrow morning and ask whats happening with them.

Those trowing stars i was going to get got scrapped, so if have room in my car when i go home im intrested in your wheels again

cheers

Thats cool they are here so you can grab them whenever. When are you off home?
Adam

Hahaha, I recognise those legs...

Adam im off home on saturday. MY plan was to load the car up then see if i have room, would it be cool to come on saturday to pick them up if i have room?

cheers chris

nice construction work!

And those coilovers do look nice! How is the ride? The damper travel did look a bit short