Hmm, an interesting thought with the gasket, mine also takes a while to start if it's left for more than a week or so. I carry in my toolkit a can of "easy start". It's an aerosol you spray up the air intake and the engine fires and runs on the vapours, just long enough for the fuel pump to get some petrol amongst it.

As for the damp, driving to work on the motorway yesterday morning the car wouldn't accellerate above 80. Every time I put my foot down the engine cut out. Then it wouldn't go above 60, then 50... then I came off at a sliproad and it very very nearly died completely on a roundabout! Frantic pedalling kept what sounded like one cylinder firing for a few seconds, then suddenly it burst back to life and all was well again.
When I went to leave work it wouldn't start at all. i whipped the distributor cap off and immediately could see how damp it was. Dried out with a paper towel and took it for a long test drive to make sure; job's a good'un.

It's the first time it's been that badly affected by damp, but it had been sleeting on the motorway, and snowflakes can get blown about by air currents and end up in places you don't want them to be! Then I parked facing a wall at work, so I guess it never dried out.

Anyway, sorry to waffle at you for a while, but I guess what I'm trying to say is, as others have mentioned, it's worth making sure it's all dry and clean electric-wise when it comes to damp mornings!

Cheers all

You might want to check the condition of the cap and rotor arm too. My old cap wasn't that badly damaged (I have detailed pics if they'd be appriciated), but it caused a major misfire.

cheers

James

Mine was eating rotor caps and arms (every 6 months or so) until I realised it was the condenser/capacitor on the renix unit. Couldn't figure how to change it so got complete unit from scrappy. Changed the whole thing and then saw the little grub screw at the bottom!

Late model Renix units don't have the condensor as standard...maybe a good update?

cheers

James

Maybe ours had them added then, cos our 1989 models have both got them, ones a 1.4 and ones a 1/7 My 360 doesn't have one.

The pump 3 times and she fires is when the float chamber is dry as a bone, the accel pump diaphragm will normally still retain a few drops of fuel, pumping it would be enough to make the car run, but I wouldn't recommend it., because it cuts out before the fuel can make its way down the tubes to the carb.

I've found the best way to start our 1.7s is full choke, don't touch the throttle and if it hasn't been running for a while it'll take a few turns. Don't be afraid to crank for ten second bursts, better than lots of short ones. Once it catches, choke gently in about a third. If all adjusted properly then revving shouldn't be needed.

Vickys 89 1.7 had it but an 88 model I got for spares didnt?

Curious! Both mine and the donor were '88. Will 440 be the same or the upgrade? Especially now I hunger after a 440 carb.

Just remembered though. Redline was released in '87 but some were not bought until '88 and they were probably discounted anyway. The oridinal owner of mine was some old gent that went shopping in it twice a week.

Do 440s use Renix? I'm not too sure, and far too lazy to go and look I'm guessing you were asking about the ignition system, not the carb swap, as IIRC someone covered the main points on that one the other day.

cheers

James

Fenix and siemens

Looks the same from the outside.

Today it started fine BUT there is a problem. Part of the carb (that seems to control the air flow) was loose, the threads have gone. I've threadlocked it and going to zip tie so it can't fall off. Ideal solution would be to helicoil but there is no pressure so I'm sure a good bodge will work.

There was a B19A GLS in my local yard...want me to pull the carb if it's still there?

cheers

James

Probably not. I can araldite this part into place. Otherwise the car runs reallllly well so probably best to leave the carb untouched. Its doing 35mpg in the winter being 'used well'

Thanks for the offer