Anjo... how do you find the extra rotating mass during gear changes? I'm epically dubious of any more rotating mass in the system before the gearbox, the 300 prop isn't completely different to every other design in existence for no reason.

Depending on design, I'm interesting. But, I'm damn fussy about what gets bolted onto my car. And the company needs to be somewhere I can drive to so I can shout at them if it's not to spec.

the weight initially helps on a gearchange, as the mass allows the rpm's to drop slower than with a lighter flywheel.

it's the distance the prop needs to cover wich is the biggest problem. i intend to play around a bit with the flywheels weight once i get my turbo running standalone management so i can get a balance with a heavy duty prop but i intend to make it consist out of 2 shorter shaft of wich the gearbox shaft is hung the chassis in a bearing (940 style, could be under more swedes too but can't recall that), that will solve the balancing problem as both gearbox and engine move too much for a single steel axle like the Reco-prop style to be properly balanced under driving sircumstances.

i've not been in Eriks 343 1.7Turbo while he was testing it, but knowing him if that guy gets annoyed by something vibrating then it really is impossible to drive around with i've placed the uprated propshaft a bit later on the list as currently my prop is holding up just fine. its the uprated clutch that started slipping above 1 bar boost so that's the bigger problem for me

volvodspec wrote:do a search on here on reco prop first

and if you do contact them, ask if they can solve the balancing problem before your car turns into a vibrator while you're cruisin around.

Ah it was reco prop then. I read somewhere you were talking about the balancing issues you had on prop shafts. They balanced on their machine but not on the car. So it was THEM! I'll just ask around tomorrow. Cheers dude.

Attack2001 wrote:I think i've read someone that Reco-Prop (http://www.reco-prop.co.uk/) sell 340 steel props for £150

That is cheap!

It's not those who i've spoken with though.

Like i say just shy of £200 was as a stand alone prop and there was a discount of IIRC £10-15 on a batch of ten.

It just seems props are getting fairly scarce (unless you had the hindsight to stock up) so like i say i made some enquiries which went no futher than "would you do a discount for a group buy of say ten or more" there reply was yes. Thats as far as i got.

Like you say Chris the 300 prop is very light compared to conventional props, so if by having a heavier uprated one is going to cause other issues i'm not sure if it really solves anything?

More technological peoples input may help ?

I'm not sure how "solid" props would affect the rest of the drivetrain, but losing the damping effect of the rubber couplings might not be ideal.

Not being a manual man, I've only come across the rubber coupling tearing itself apart on Variomatics. However, a solution to that problem is HERE

from end to end, how long is a volvo prop then, any ideas?

macplaxton wrote:I'm not sure how "solid" props would affect the rest of the drivetrain, but losing the damping effect of the rubber couplings might not be ideal.

Not being a manual man, I've only come across the rubber coupling tearing itself apart on Variomatics. However, a solution to that problem is HERE

Super sluething Mac, that could well be the answer to our problems, a prop made as Volvo intended.
Like the above link mentions rubber fatigues over time, so maybe it's not as weak a point we think, just that they are now reaching the end and in most cases exceeding their life expectancy

Would i be correct in saying the ali prop itself rarely breaks, it's usually the failing of the rubber couplings either end?


P.S Jon soz for spamming up your thread

magnumpi wrote:Like the above link mentions rubber fatigues over time, so maybe it's not as weak a point we think, just that they are now reaching the end and in most cases exceeding their life expectancy

Would i be correct in saying the ali prop itself rarely breaks, it's usually the failing of the rubber couplings either end?

I've never seen rubber break by age, soley by misalignment too.

I've seen ali borked by people with club hammers rather than rubber mallets, but never broken. I think the design is pretty neat. The only thing I worry about is the load on syncro's now (as what gearbox in history has a heavy "clutch output/gearbox input" shaft other than us? It's just not seen. The 360 torque tube's prop is tiny for the same reason I think. I'm tempted to try a £150 reco prop prop. Unlike the dutchies there isn't a problem with me driving my car to Luton and taking them for a ride if it doesn't work as intended. They have a *very* good reputation in most of the car scene so maybe they just arn't used to our setup?

No worries for spamming mugnumpi, its on the topic at hand

Called reco prop this morning - £275 for a prop apparently. That wasn't what I expected, anyone else tried?

On mine the rubber span/disintegrated at the bellhousing end, no idea if that was due to misalignment or not.

Don't get me wrong i like my car but i don't think i love it as much as you lot do yours, in that it's needed a clutch for ages, it only slips when you hammer it but it's not right, and my 2nd gear syncro gave up the ghost long ago. Every slightly enthusiastic gearchange to 2nd results in a nasty crunch. The way i see it when it breaks it breaks. I've got a spare gearbox, but still after a spare prop or better still an uprated one.

What clutches are you lot using running F7's as i'd like an upgrade to what i've got?

I think we put more miles on ours that you do. When yours breaks, I'm guessing it's no big deal. For people like chris and me who do 20k a year it's important to have everything right.

btw - OT. Your name came up in a conversation with KevFromWales at the weekend. Apparently you recognised him instantly but you'd never actually met before

Speedy88 wrote:I think we put more miles on ours that you do. When yours breaks, I'm guessing it's no big deal. For people like chris and me who do 20k a year it's important to have everything right.

btw - OT. Your name came up in a conversation with KevFromWales at the weekend. Apparently you recognised him instantly but you'd never actually met before

Ah yes, i see the reply now , yep thats just how it went

This is true, i've probably put less than 20k on it in 3 and a bit years with the Valver. No it's not a massive deal for me as i can use a work van, just a slight inconvenience.

magnumpi wrote:On mine the rubber span/disintegrated at the bellhousing end, no idea if that was due to misalignment or not.

That's engine mounts dude... I'd put money on it. Rubber look like this?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/c_cardwell ... 4229120615

I don't put many miles on mine, but when something breaks, rattles or squeaks, I'll do my best to get it done quickly. That and I don't want the situation exacerbated by wearing holes in anything etc.

Today in the middle of prop searching I machined up a gear knob from more Ali. It's relativley big compared to the origional one, but it fits my large hands better,and has given the throw a little more weight, so it helps itself to find the gear too. Feels great. Unfortunately, I machined the hole to 16mm bang on, where I needed .5mm or so less than that. DOH! Bloomin push on gear knobs. I'll have to fab up a very thin collar to make it a tight fit. At the mo, I've used a little electrical tape (as I can't drive it still). Seems to hold well though, even with vigour.

strip of duct tape around splines. Press on firmly.

Looks awesome man.

Must increase overall weight a bit mind!