Quick update... cylinder head is off... still battling with the downpipe to manifold nut, simply not enough room to get the car high enough with my small 2.5T trolley jack, so I think I'll be investing in something larger along with some taller axle stands. Combined with a blow lamp I think we'll be in business.

Undecided what to do about the cylinder head at the moment, going to get a couple of quotes at some local engineering firms to clean up the valves, skim the head and pressure test it - I probably wont have a go myself as I'll need yet more tools and time so I'm not sure it'll be worth it.

Good news is the head and block look in good shape with no corrosion around any of the water passages but inlet valve on number 1 cylinder does look suspect compared to all the rest.

What a superb car Chris, I'm really jealous! Knowing how picky you are with rust, that car must be a "true minter".

SteveP wrote:Actually, an aside I know but what I've been meaning to check is what diff this car has in it. My old B19A GLS had a 3.64 - which was a surprise at the time (and doubt it had been swapped out), so I'd imagine this is a 3.36 as it's really a Mk3 in Mk2 drag.

Going by Anjo's diff ratio list you may have an even "taller" diff than that:

b200k = 3,27:1
b200ko = 3,45:1

but I don't know what the difference between a b200k and a b200ko is.

Looking forward to your updates

Cheers

Tom

trabitom99 wrote:but I don't know what the difference between a b200k and a b200ko is.

Where did they sell these "overseas" / "other" market engine models?

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=438

360GL wrote:The last letter: S=swedish, E=european, O=overseas, U=southamerican, A=australian, D=version with 3-way catalytic converter without lambda probe (oxygen sensor)

(I take it "D" is West German spec?)

Overseas sounds realistic

3,27:1 it could be then, wow ... I wonder what that top speed would be at 6000 rpm.

Tom

Thanks Tom! It is very clean, I definitely wouldn't have gone to this hassle otherwise, looking forward to getting it running

Never knew that info about the diffs - I wonder if the UK even got that ratio, will have to see what the label says...

Head is at the engineering firm, will get skimmed and they're going to advise the best plan regarding the valves/stems this week. Finally got the manifold to down pipe final nut undone with perseverance and a load of heat from the blowlamp!

Next step is to order a bunch of gaskets/seals, timing belt etc from Volvo and clean up the block deck mating surface ready for when the head is back. Mac has also kindly provided me with a carb base to inlet manifold gasket for when that's reassembled

Hey man, wicked work. I vaguely remember having lots of trouble with that nut, and in my case it was easier to unbolt the manifold from the cylinder head and then pull out the downpipe attached to the manifold.

Cheers! I very much nearly resorted to the same thing, but thought I'd give it one last go and it worked - I first thought the socket had slipped off due to it being a precarious mix of extensions and the universal joint, but it had actually started undoing

Haven't updated this for a while but the re-furbished head is back on the car (skimmed, cleaned, new valve stems oil seals etc), timing belt back on and I've just got to refit the inlet side of things, fit the fanbelts, new thermostat and fill it up with oil and coolant before trying it again. I also fitted a new timing belt, tensioner, waterpump while I was there.

What's everyone thoughts on circa 8 year old fuel? It has a small amount in the tank (below the reserve mark) - I was wondering whether it's wise to drain it and fill it with a few litres of fresh fuel? The lines seem to be clear up to the engine bay from what I can tell (fuel was being pulled through when turning the engine by hand) and it looks visually ok but I'm aware it degrades over time.

If the best thing to do is drain it, best place to disconnect the hose connecting the two 'halves' of the tank?

Id imagine the fuel has turned to varnish in that time.... but tbh if it were me and there were only a little in the tank and its otherwise clean id probably just top it up with fresh and crack on

My GLT will quite happily drink anything

Did you find out what dif it has?

Yeah, I'd heard it might go varnish-y, but it doesn't look like it has from what I've seen come through into the inline filter in the engine bay - I was tempted by doing that too, the risk being I might have even more fuel to drain if it doesn't work

Not yet actually - I'll have a look, as I was going to swap my GLT's original wheels onto it in preparation for it going for an MOT. The tyres are original and one leaks air quite bad, trying to decide what to do with wheels before putting 4 new tyres on...

Well it's all reassembled and back together - it'll sort of start to run if I chuck some fresh fuel directly down the carb, but I'm not happy with dragging up the old fuel from the tank - I've read old fuel can actually cause sticky inlet valves (wonder if thats what happened in the first place?!) Anyway, I've decided to drain the remainder of old fuel out of the tank so got a few containers on order.

Hopefully it'll be running next weekend... (he says...)

What's peoples thoughts on brakes? As brake fluid is hydroscopic - obviously I'll replace the fluid itself - but should I replace things like calipers, master cylinder and wheel cylinders?

Hi Steve.
What about running a load of Redex through the system.
Cheers Mark.

Fresh fuel sounds like a good idea!

If the car has been standing around for a long time, you're unlikely to have "perfect braking" from the outset - keep an eye out for dodgy brake hoses, leaky rear cylinders and sticky front calipers.

I'd potter about gently for a bit, definitely with fresh brake fluid, and take it one bit at a time while keeping an eye on the fluid level and regularly checking for leaks. It depends on your budget, and the use the car will be getting.

Cheers

Tom

Finally... some progress...! Albeit nothing exciting. I hadn't had much time lately to work on the GLS/had been putting off this job for some time.

The fuel tank has finally been drained of the old stale fuel, good job too as it looked pretty nasty compared to fresh fuel. Despite the gauge registering well under the half way mark, I still managed to extract approximately 30 litres(!). Queue finding lots of fuel cans and containers... not fun. I'll replace the link piece and chuck 10 litres in (need yet another petrol can!!) and see if we can get it running shortly Anyone know the official way of disposing of old fuel? Easy enough with old engine oil but not sure if local recycling centres will take it?