Damir130 wrote:Who knows, rig up some sort of brake light actuated water spray system.

Would this temper the disc? Lots learned in 3 posts there though, now to digest!

VERY true about the tyres. I have pretty good road tyres, and I can't lock them up...at least not without the kind of pedal effort which feels totally wrong...like it'll brake something.

Basically, the difference between hard braking and emergency braking is a huge amount of pedal effort, although up to this point, it feels niec and progressive. Any thoughts?

cheers

James

@Carl..Ok sounds like you managed to get the whole braking system overcooked. Maybe rallying is less forgiving on the brakes then the Nordschleiffe and other tracks. Good luck with piecing together a solution, might be something I'll need as well after the locker diff and turbo engine.

@Foggy: Pedal in my volvo is pretty damn hard. Not a lot of effort needed for braking. Sounds like you may have crappy fluid/ badly bled brakes/a leaky BMC.

@Chris: Who knows..I've seen them doing it in truck-racing. Just a wild idea.

That's the wierd thing though...it's very nice and light until you need the full force. Maybe I'm just a chicken with the pedal? It was bled with fresh fluid fairly recently, so I'd be surprised if its that. Could well be the BMC...

cheers

James

Damir130 wrote:JTBO.
1. You need to change your fluid much more often..could be a large part of the problem.
2. Changing to vented discs when for example the BMC is leaky will solve nothing.
3. DS2500 pads should be more then able to lock your tires, I suggest taking a good look at the BMC (check for bubbles in reservoir).
4. Difference in braking performance could very well be the tie-rods. The bushings desintegrate and often the metal bracket that holds them is rusted away. Parts can be ordered from volvo for 50E or so.
5. Stock discs can be found very cheaply..payed like 20E for mine. (unsure whether this also holds for vented discs..guess so.) Other then that I replaced all rubber hoses and rebuilt the callipers.

In the end I wouldn't trust my life to an inferior braking system. They are the single most important part of the car on track. So far, the volvo has proven itself absolutely flawless.

Vented discs are just around 30 euros/each, and 240 Girling calipers can be found used very good price too. Anyway I need to do disc/caliper work so it is same effort to upgrade them.

Of course you are right that my brake problem could be solved with new master cylinder and brakfluid and those I will get done too.

Next summer I will have even more power than now and I already have more than any 360 model had stock.

Those tie-rods, well, there is rubber, but no metal, it has rusted off. However I do have replacement parts already, need to change them.
I'm waiting to get those better bushings first. Almost all bushings are needed to replace so I'm replacing them with more sporty one's, cost is not much higher and effort to change them is same, so I choose performance route there too.

I will need to change rubber hoses with those sport versions that has this metal 'net' (word lost again) so when braking it won't flex so much and will give better feeling to pedal.

My tyres are quite good, grip is not big problem but sidewalls are not enough strong, tire bends under the car, as we say here, not sure how to translate that properly.

Next tires will be Pilot Sport 2, they use that tyre in one of our track serie too, would be easier to compare lap times then

Too bad I have no garage, parking lot is not good place to do repairs for car when you have -20C and 1 meter of snow at winter time. Maybe I get something done before winter, rest must wait to next summer.

Damir130 wrote:@Carl..Ok sounds like you managed to get the whole braking system overcooked. Maybe rallying is less forgiving on the brakes then the Nordschleiffe and other tracks. Good luck with piecing together a solution, might be something I'll need as well after the locker diff and turbo engine.

You're continually on the brakes, not too mention coming to a complete halt quite often, so I'd imagine its a fair bit harsher than circuit racing.

How easy is it to find a locking diff? Having had 2 of them in the XR4x4, and really appreciating them that's one thing I'd really like for the 360!

Carl wrote: How easy is it to find a locking diff? Having had 2 of them in the XR4x4, and really appreciating them that's one thing I'd really like for the 360!

Well, take an apple and take a needle, then place needle so that it is standing on it's tip, then place apple top of it, if you can get those balanced without cheating, you can say you are lucky. Finding locking diff to 300 is far more harder

Well, of course you can be lucky with this too, but search could take more than one year.

What happens when you don't get 1 or 2 but get 3...

3. Brake system get hot enough for wheel bearing grease to boil and spray over the bodywork and wheels....

SoLaMaNdA wrote:What happens when you don't get 1 or 2 but get 3...

3. Brake system get hot enough for wheel bearing grease to boil and spray over the bodywork and wheels....

Yes, this is annoying when happens, also braking becomes quite difficult when brake disc is greased, but luckily disc is usually enough hot to burn grease away

jtbo wrote:Well, take an apple and take a needle, then place needle so that it is standing on it's tip, then place apple top of it, if you can get those balanced without cheating, you can say you are lucky. Finding locking diff to 300 is far more harder

LMAO!!! But surely LSD is the hard one... a locked diff can be found where ever there is a welding torch... Oh.. locking, needs to be unlocked! Ah well, sometimes things have to be compromised

I can get LSD just down the road, but that won't do anything for the axle

I don't see the need for an LSD on the 300, by the time you have some sensible size tyres there are no wheel spin problems.
With mine having the crappy prop I do avoid planting the power for fear of it going bang

360 turbo then LSD is going to help.

Dai

I'm not struggling in that way, neither is Huskyracer AFAIK. We'll see once I've got some tractable power off the line after my latest tuning session this weekend!

cheers

James

classicswede wrote:I can get LSD just down the road, but that won't do anything for the axle

I don't see the need for an LSD on the 300, by the time you have some sensible size tyres there are no wheel spin problems.
With mine having the crappy prop I do avoid planting the power for fear of it going bang

360 turbo then LSD is going to help.

Dai

I disagree. What you tell is true at launch, but when you go fast aroun tight corner 360 just won't accelerate as one wheel is almost at air. Also when doing rally on gravel LSD/locking diff is almost must have, because initiating drift is much easier with it, without one it is bit random if tail will kick out nicely and stay out without loosing speed.

Without LSD my car sometimes draw two lines when I take off real hard from tarmac, but usually only one, that is with 185/60/14" sport tyres.

Oh yes, I try to avoid that, but these Civic and Crx boys think that they got fast car when they have that 'huge' 1,4 or 1,6 litre no torque at all engine

foggyjames wrote:I'm not struggling in that way, neither is Huskyracer AFAIK. We'll see once I've got some tractable power off the line after my latest tuning session this weekend!

cheers

James

150bhp ?

Do you have torque curves? It would be nice to compare carb vs FI, of course mine has not got pro tunging and has problems with fuel pressure, but maybe someday I will get all that sorted

Lsd will make a big differece on gravel rally, and is probably esential.
I can not get rear wheel to lift at all, the only problem I ever have is slight understeer.

LSD is definatly worth having for road use, but not really needed for road use that is what I was trying to get at.

I do remember seeing somthing about the dana being used on a 300.

Dai