about the balancing and fluid wich shouldn't affect the ballancing process..

i take it they didn't use seamless pipe where fluid inside the axle wouldn't matter, just like the can of coke.

however; if it's "regular" welded pipe that is used there is a nice welding joint along the length off the tube; it doesn't matter that it's there when there's no fluid in the axle while balancing. but if there is fluid in it, the fluid would flatten out the inner surface and balance it wrong.

once the fluid is out, or whatever it is just like having a perfectly balanced axle and then put a weld on top of the axle for the full length of the tube in a straight line.

Yeah chaps. That all makes sense. It is a seamless tube, so when the prop spins up, the fluid spreads out to the sides. I initially thought that with the extra mass of fluid, it would never balance properly. The washing machine example put it into perspective. Thanks lads, and very nice use of words mac!

With the balancing, we'll just have to wait and see how it goes. they'll re-balance it, hopefully with the couplings too. I don't see why it shouldn't balance on the car, as the engine to gearbox line is fine, at least when I look straight down the rear of the car with the prop on. I NEED to get hold of a laser pen to check alignment properly. What I don't want is a prop that never balances on the car, like Anjo had in the past.

On reflection, it definitely doesn't need a slider, and I agree with the rest of the list too, mac. But after forking out so much for the prop in the first place, I don't want to pay for a completely new design of prop. I don't have enough money to spend if they try and charge me for a re-design, and if that's the case, I'm stuck with too heavy a prop with no use.

Send me your address and what ever the postage is and you can borrow my aligny tool dude. I'll need it back in a fortnight or so, so you can call whether you want it before or after.

Only stipulation is it's signed for delivery both ways and it's not an open offer to everybody. If you want to still make your own I won't be offended, but the offers there.

I've said it before and I doubt it'll be the last time, but how many car forums actually have good problem solving like this? FWIW, I'm with MP, I reckon with this prop lightened and balanced it'll be pretty damn nice, but I think it needs some compliance... kinda like a bonded rubber section

Cool stuff Chris, thanks. I'll have a look tomorrow for one, but if I can't find one cheap, I'll take you up on the offer, and the terms you requested are fine and will be met! Problem solving is unique to this forum, we're putting twice as much power through a drive train than it was designed for, and using epic engineering skillz and discussion to problem solve, instead of just throwing in the towel. It's fantastic.

I agree with the rubber section, I'll discuss options tomorrow and let you guys know how I get on. Today when I went in I saw some (all be it very large) rubber donuts that seemed to sandwich between coupling and shaft. that could work. I'd only need one I reckon like mac said, just to dissipate the vibrations.

Googly picture search for "Rotoflex coupling" dude, they are used on lots of stuff. As far as I'm aware, they come with a rubber band round the outside, you install it to the car, then cut the rubber band whilst diving for cover and never ever ever undo the bolts. Or something similar to that

jon-ovlov wrote: But after forking out so much for the prop in the first place, I don't want to pay for a completely new design of prop. I don't have enough money to spend if they try and charge me for a re-design, and if that's the case, I'm stuck with too heavy a prop with no use.

I can see where you're coming from, but it could be a case of having to spend money on another gearbox if the problems occuring now aren't put completely to bed.

Chris_C wrote:Googly picture search for "Rotoflex coupling" dude, they are used on lots of stuff. As far as I'm aware, they come with a rubber band round the outside, you install it to the car, then cut the rubber band whilst diving for cover and never ever ever undo the bolts. Or something similar to that

Having had Hillman Imps in the past they are rotten things but at least they were replaceable which is half the battle. In fact the last time I fitted a new one, I had to cut the band off it before fitting it

I'm just helping get an Imp roadworthy... it's what made me think of them

I'd love an Imp.

Sorry to hear of the woes John! 'Props' to you for laying out the green to have a custom one designed though, hope it's not too much of a ball ache to sort out!

Those chocolate propshafts really do give you 340 guys a hard time!

macplaxton wrote: I can see where you're coming from, but it could be a case of having to spend money on another gearbox if the problems occuring now aren't put completely to bed.

Yeah, especially when parts for these things are getting pretty hard to find as it is.

The rotoflex coupling is interest, I think it was a few of those I saw lying round yesterday.

L14MNP wrote:I'd love an Imp.

Sorry to hear of the woes John! 'Props' to you for laying out the green to have a custom one designed though, hope it's not too much of a ball ache to sort out!

Those chocolate propshafts really do give you 340 guys a hard time!

Ha ha! Yeah a pun! Cheers bud, hopefully I'll get somewhere with the new design today.

So went to see the prop company again today, sods law the chap who built it wasn't in today. However, should be in tomorrow, so we'll discuss in detail what the plan of attack is. However, general consensus is they will take the slider out, practically re-make the shaft and properly balance it. They will also refund the cost of the slider and labour. This will give a lighter, well balanced prop that will work. The prop was re-balanced today, just to check, and it was out, only by a small amount though. I think the weight exacerbated the situation. I still don't know about the gearbox front though, as I'd rather not faff around removing and replacing the box myself, given the crap week I had trying to get it running to get home. Hopefully they will pay for fitting a new box, as they seem happy to do that for now.

Tomorrow will see a proper discussion about options and what they can do. Just need to grab Chris' laser alignment tool to check engine alignment, and all should be well.

Doesn't need to be much bud. I've driven for a very small amount on an out of balanced prop (i.e. the test run) and that wasn't nice, yet was a tiny amount of banana on a stock prop (sub 1mm over the entire length)

Fair enough. The un-balanced portion was attached to the gearbox end at the time, so it all makes sense.

I'm glad they won't charge me for the re-make of the prop, thank God. It'll be nice to have a car again, that works for more than a day

I'll pm you my address Chris, for the laser tool.

So while the prop company make a new prop for me, thought I'd try and sort out another thing that's been getting on my nerves a bit. Door trim. The chip board panels have pulled and are beginning to fall apart, (driver's side especially). The passenger side is ok, but rattles a lot. They'll be replaced with aluminium panel, with gaps in it for the door pull etc. I'll make the door handles to look like this: http://shop1.actinicexpress.co.uk/shops ... &search=Go

On my side they'll also be a fire extinguisher bracket at the bottom right, and on both doors there'll be a pod for a speaker (bottom left). Been measuring today, I'll do the first panel and door handles tomorrow.

Here's the design for now, not much to see, just a flat sheet It'll be self tapped into the door, at several points to strengthen it and to prevent it from rattling.

that'll look cool! how about small rubber washers aswell?

Only thing i can see is that where the original handle/tray thing is, there's a bracket below which that handle/tray is screwed into. That would need to be removed for your panels to fit (i think). Looks like it will be dead good. Fire extinguisher's a good idea too, i've got a genuine volvo 240 in my boot, was just too big for between the door and seat.

Rubber washers - good idea also, stop rattles vibration.