the stainless braid hoses look lovely coming out a GLT grille

I would but a) dont really wanna start putting holes in bumpers b) In the north east it would last 5 mins before it was nicked c) finding some way of ducting air away from it was hard. I liked Liam's idea of having it in the rear valance but that meant expensive amounts of hose.

Surely putting in the rear valence it wont get alot of air?

how easy is this to install dude?

I think there was going to be some ducting and it was right down low below the bumper

Yep pretty straight forward, it's just mounting the thing that's tricky. after that you:
-drain oil
-remove filter
-replace with take off plate
-screw in 2 oil lines off that - one to the cooler the other to the filter plate
-the connect up the other side of the cooler to the filter plate
-put filter on filter plate
-fill up oil (will need more than you take out to fill the hoses and cooler up)
-start and check for leaks

PTFE tape on the threads is recommended and they have 1/8 NPT fittings for sensors if you chose so.

I'll probably be fitting mine properly on thursday with a new volvo filter i got from RJ at BKV

That reminds me, I changed the air filter for a clean, and genuine volvo, one. car felt better, will see how/if it affects MPG. And i've got a LH2.4 ECU off Chris_C to kick that project off

Nimminz wrote: And i've got a LH2.4 ECU off Chris_C to kick that project off

More of this please.

volvosneverdie wrote:

Nimminz wrote: And i've got a LH2.4 ECU off Chris_C to kick that project off

More of this please.

+1

Nev from drift moto reckoned he might have a loom and other parts in a box somewhere too.
Might also have a mooch around a scrapyard with my list of bosch numbers and pillage-able cars for some other components
If i get everything but no loom then I'll make it my self. Then there's the matter of trigger wheels or a new fly.

Will try and get this moving

Got to get a move on with the spare drivetrain so Atchi's LSD gets a test, fit more polybushes, change door handle seals, Oil cooler, gauges for oil press. and temp., get tracking sorted, roll the arches and fix the blowing exhaust. Sure I could add to the list for ages.

Got both sensors in the filter plate

Had to by some bent 1/8th NPT things to fit the fat press. sensor over the temp one:




So will try and get that done this week

Also got somewhere to do my gearbox/diff/TT/linkages/atchi's LSD just need to get the last of the bolts off the diff and fit all the gaskets. Next couple of weeks finger's crossed Also going to try some obscure part numbers at volvo see if odd bits of diff/front suspension are available.

Thanks for looking,
Matt

Not updated this in a while

I semi-fixed the sunroof, Found the initial cause of the problem to be the 2 screws that hold the winding mechanism were loose meaning it wasn't pulling the wires properly. Still, the lifting mechanism's broken so still drops at the back but managed to wind it right the way forwards and shove something under the sunroof at the back to hold it up. Sits perfect now

Changing the torque tube, gearbox and Diff tomorrow, Will be picking up Atchi's LSD tonight. Will probably put all the covers back on with new gaskets tonight to save time tomorrow.

Had the car randomly cut out twice over the last week, In the end I worked it out to be no fuel getting through. Had plenty in the tank so next stop was the pump. That worked fine when 12v was fed to it so next thing down the line was the fuse - its in that silly little box on the n/s inner wing. Yup - Corroded contacts. Cleaned them up and not had the problem for the last 100 mile so fingers crossed that was it.

CB radio got put back in too

New problem I've found is that the n/s/f of the car is lower than the o/s/f. Based on arch gap measurements its about 5-8mm. The tracking is out on the n/s but I cant see that making the difference. Possibly a bent wishbone/bottom arm, I hit a curb ages ago, before plating them up and fitting the side i hit the curb with's bottom arm (o/s) on the n/s after plating.

I'm thinking of buying some copper cored HT wire and making some HT leads, the carbon cored ones are way too fragile and I suspect this is whats giving me the continuous misfire. Only thing is the radio interference?

Got the new ARB all painted up and poly drop links fitted, just need to take the bottom arms off and cut the hole in the bottom so i can do the nuts up lol - never thought of that when I plated the undersides

Will stick some pics up soon

My car was unlevel for ages, have you checked the top mounts yet?

Good luck Matt with fitting that LSD.

I will be looking forward to hear good news with it.....I hope .
Just Thrash hell out of it and go side ways!

Cheers
Atchi

Well Started on thursday and everything went to sh*t

First off swapped the bearings out the new diff onto Atchi's LSD - went fine
Put LSD in new diff case only to find that the pinion shaft was cracked and a tooth came off in the process - I know why and its a long story involving a lad with a sledge hammer before i got it
So that's the new gearbox / diff out the window
as we only had the day to work on the car we decided to tackle the torque tube as i'd taken the brackets i'd welded on off leaving me with 4th gear only. so lets fit the new torque tube with welded on linkage plate. wouldn't fit due to not being able to remove lever
so we had to fashion a tight fit bolt on plate with what we had using the original gear selector plate and new torque tube with my welding cut through.
torque tube didn't want to go in but it was getting late so we forced it, only to find the clutch no longer worked and the prop span as the engine did.
so we towed it to my mates where it was left for the remainder of the night.
this afternoon we thought we'd just take it all off and put everything back to how it was before we started
but the prop was stuck at the clutch housing, so stuck that we pulled the tube leaving the prop where it was.

so the plan tomorrow is to cut the prop so we can get the rest of the torque tube off then tow it back to my house where we wont get hassled by police, council or neibours and can do things properly. Atchi has a spare diff housing with pinion shaft so i'll couple that to my yellow gearbox and fit that

took some pics but left camera locked away with Atchi's diff

proper fed up with the whole lot lol

and i hope to god gearbox oil and grease comes out of flocked dash's!!

Ah! sounds some rotten luck mate!

Keep at it, it will be worth it, even if its only to have the car back on the road!

well chopped the prop off today meaning it can be towed back to my house this weekend. I'm thinking of taking it off the road for a few month's and buying something small and cheap to run round in while i sort it all out

Hi Matt,

Where did you cut prop?
If it was just near the bell housing, I might be able to use it so bring it over to me.

Good luck with rest of work.

Cheers
Atchi