Unfortunately, its still not ready. Had a little trouble with 'domestic health and safety' so got given a mitsubishi galant and full tank of fuel for the V3M weekend. Now I'm back I've sorted the situation (sort of) and can now work n the car again. Here's my list of what needs doing:

Gearbox Oil - 3.5L - Drain + Filler plug : 42.5 Nm
Diff Oil - 1.35L - Drain + filler plug : 42.5 Nm (also add tank to sweat pipe)
Torque tube Clamp : 34 Nm
Torque up gearbox - torque tube bolts: 72Nm (they are tight but not torqued)
Gear Linkages (just the pin to stick in the gearbox end and the 2 10mm bolts on the selector plate)
Lift gearbox/diff and mount - Side mount bolts : 75Nm
Bellhousing bolts torque the lower starter motor bolt and very bottom righthand bolt to 60Nm
Rotate engine and bolt down clutch pressure plate : 22Nm
Other torque tube clamp bolt can now be got at + bungs replaced
Torque the rest of the bellhousing bolts
Drive shafts, replace all bolts with new 40Nm - Modybdenium grease
Bolt on Crank pos. Sensor
Clutch cable + Adjust
Bellhousing front cover 3x bolts and rubber inspection hole cover
Reverse indicator bracket, Interior trim etc.

Then it's just top up coolant, charge battery, fit the cups and go

All depends how busy I am as to how long I can spend on the car, should be done by thursday night for a bit of testing if all goes well. If i can get me mate to help things will move much faster. I'm still after a new front x-member as mine is rather bent
Cannot wait to be driving it again!

Hey Matt,

What did do with rusty holes front cross member?
You told me I can have it so that I can repair and convert it to adjustable bottom suspension!

Let me know if you still go it as I haven't got anything in my garage to play with so may as well give it to me to play with.

Cheers
Atchi

Oh yeah, I still have that one, I'll bring it round. I bent the other front x-member lol
You in tomorrow evening?

Hi Matt,

Aye I should be in so let me know when you are coming over.

Cheers
Atchi

Any news?
Is this case of no news good news and you have it on road and driving around side ways?

Do you want me to reapir then reinforce your spare front suspension member?
Also, do you want me to see if what I said will work for the HD adjustable tie rods?

Cheers
Atchi

Oops seems I'm forgetting to update this thread :/

Clutch is in, bolted down and cable's attached just needs adjusting to be perfect
My gear linkages don't fit so I'm pulling them out (means dropping the gearbox, diff etc. again :/
Then I'll modify them so they fit +work (will be a way)
Bolt them back in, connect em up with the gearbox, fingers crossed it will work.
Then bolt the gearbox and diff back on its mounts, Drive shafts in, heatsheild, exhaust, crank pos. sensor

THEN I'll be sideways

One of the biggest problems of the last week was the fact the front chassis/ARB mount x-member was bent and was holding the engine up at the front. I have a spare think it's a 360 one? had two little brackets at the bottom one of which had to be chopped off to clear the sump. Solved the problem? Nope, its rotten - so rotten the ARB mounts have now fallen off they were that rusty. So I'm going to make a new one using 2"x1" Box section with 2mm Wall thickness. Pretty sure the way I'm going to do it will work
What I first noticed:

And now it's off the car and i can compare it to my spare: yup chassis mounts are bent

And these SHOULD be sort of the same:


So lesson learned, don't jack on or support the car for a few weeks on this x-member!!

I have a spare ARB, that came with that x-member in all the spares i got, its the earlier style but is much thicker than the one on my GLT? That's got a set of Dai's poly droplinks ready to go onto my re-inforced bottom arms when i drill a hole in teh re-enforced bit i've welded on

Got loads of free time tomorrow so should manage 8 hours work, might just be enough Even if i run the car with no ARB and the rusty x-member which I'm sure will be ok

Atchi, Yeah mate go for it, I'm looking forwards to seeing it come together, we've been on about this mod for months
I did my bottom arms / wishbones like in the link below, I was also going to do the cross member.
http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... e&start=15

Also because I now have a spare Anti Roll bar,i was thinking of trying this:


Had mixed opinions, some say it would be an improvement, other's that it would be crap. So only way to find out is to try it, I can make the brackets pretty easily.

Finally, I've had a little more time on the 'Telemetry' Project
I fried the tiny temprature sensor by accident lol So am using a LDR (light sensor in simple terms) to give an analogue input i can test things with, then i can simply swap it for say an oil pressure sensor with little dificulty. I'm also looking at how to measure frequency, which would give me RPM straight from the renix - dash wire. At the moment RPM is just linked to the LDR so i could get the visuals right. Here's a photo from tonight:



the top section is the Acellerometer should be pretty straight forward, it's showing breaking going round a left corner ( or sitting with the O/S/F corner pointing down hill ) The 'Light' section is the light level - Number 1-9, 9 being brightest and a bar above the "/9" text that increases as the light does, when it hits 9 it's in line with the end of the "/9" text.
SD record is just for show at the moment
The rev counter is, as i said just linked to the light level but when i get it done properly the bar at the bottom should increase in side and the numbers in the bar show what revs you are at, along with a number for quicker viewing. I did start experimenting with menus and pages but this got extremely complicated and I thought it can wait until i have other things working.

If you havn't got there yet, the tacho is a pulsed signal that needs to be counted in some manner. Tisn't hard, just dont expect a nice 0-5 analogue!

I like the look of the rear anti roll bar, and from the picture it doesnt look a huge amount of work, I can imagine it will work, why did people say it wont?

My first thought (not having thought very much at all) is the leaf spring hanger at the rear of the car rotates about the car mounted pickup point when the leaf is deflected. The triangulation where the ARB picks up means the ARB pickup will move whenever the leaf spring deflects, i.e. if you hit a bump equally with both wheels the ARB pickups will move backwards relative to the axle. As the ARB arms can't change length, there will be a binding effect on the springs, which is exactly what you don't want, a negative effect on what already happens.

Solve that and you'd be on a winner I think.

Yeah that's the main thing people have said, but as it's mounted on both the top and bottom, it doesn't move exactly the same as the shackle. Although that's not to say the brackets may be too short and may still have that effect. It's worth a go.

Yeah, i was pretty sure it was a pulse thing, I have a rough sketch for frequency counting that just needs to be modified to suit the signal and then some calculations to get RPM, which then has to undergo more calculations to get it to change the size of the bar

Might be something to try out this oscilloscope me dad got es from a car boot lol, not a clue how you use it

Today's progress:

Removed gearlinkages which was a right pain seen as the gearbox was mounted
Grinder broke :/ so couldn't modify them to fit
Had to take me grandad's Pajero for new tyres so that wasted a couple of hours (though i got it sideways as i was in 2WD mode)
Walked into town for a new grinder
Cut the linkage plate back to how it was when it came off the car, going to bodge it like i did before - CBA fabbing brackets and welding and measuring - want the car working!!!
Re-mounted them, with the selector arm on the wrong way
Got annoyed and left it for the day

Tomorrow's plans

take the bar off and stick it on the right way + attach to gearbox
Fill diff with oil, top up gearbox oil and find filler plug
Re mount gearbox/diff
Fit Driveshafts
Fit heatsheild, Exhaust brackets + weld a new one on the centre pipe using original U bolt thing, Down pipe w/ new gasket and backbox
Crank pos. sensor
Bodge gear linkages as before

Then its the little things like interior trim, wheels, stereo, reverse switch etc.

Oh and i've got a Clio exhaust to fix - should pay for my first tank of Petrol

Canny impresed I've managed EVERYTHING so far on my own as regards putting it back together - wish I hadn't - would have been done by now if I'd had help, Is a nice feeling though

Nimminz wrote:Yeah that's the main thing people have said, but as it's mounted on both the top and bottom, it doesn't move exactly the same as the shackle. Although that's not to say the brackets may be too short and may still have that effect. It's worth a go.

Get your lego out and have a build, the ARB will bind the movement of the spring all the time it is triangulated!

I miss lego

Yeah I see now, Probably mount it to the body then,probably means cracking the welder out - will wait till I'm driving it anyway

Ok so today i have done:

Prop Clamp bolts - took ages, i had to turn the engine and get the holes in the clamp level with the holes in the torque tube would have been so simple with 2 people
Filled gearbox and diff with oil
Mounted the crank sensor using 1 bolt as the other fell down the downpipe - not a clue how that's gonna come out of there
Put the gear linkage bar on the right way round
Bolted the plate down onto the torque tube
Put the lever into the plate wit the rubber thing and the circlip
Mounted the gearbox for the millionth time
Couldn't get the pin in the gearbox selector thingamy so used a smaller diameter screw to see if it works
It doesn't

The linkages are jammed against the torque tube and the bracket which the 2 handbrake cables pass through and it catches he top of the torque tube further up. dunno why. It's mounted on the two rubber things and no front bar so obviously there is a lot of movement when you move the lever, wedging scewdrivers etc. let me get 1st, 3rd and 4th but the bar was jamming all the time against the torque tube. My plan was to weld plates round the circular lever holder bit to hold it in place like i did before when the front bar snapped off. Doesn't look like this will work now. It's annoying because there's nowt major left to do. if i solved it this second I'd be out driving the car this evening.

My only idea is to remove the two screws holding the plate to the torque tube and just try and weld the plate onto the transmission tunnel and hope to fuck it works. I'm getting rather fed up of not having a car, I've not been out, gone anywhere or done anything i want to for ages (except the v3m meet)









Matt

I hate rain, Can't do anything today. I had an hour this morning taking the rubber brackets off and managed to loose the pin that holds the linkages into the gearbox, in the mud i was lying in. Diff's leaking out the O/S bearing carrier, gearbox out the side cover. Got one driveshaft in last night while waiting for the clio i was gonna weld the exhaust on for. Really dunno what to do, there's no way i can make the linkages work. I'm that close - just exhaust and a driveshaft after i get the linkages sussed.

When you do the welding - as with any welding you're unsure of. Just do some strong tacs first. Maybe 3 will do? They're a lot lot easier to undo than a whole lot of welding.