jamz wrote:i see that it was for sale a few times etc... its lovely and feels new! just riding so boucny and soft and high ive read so much stuff on lowering and stiffening etc and dunno what to beleive or do....

Lowering will drop the centre of gravity and make it feel a bit more purposeful.
They do bounce along merrily at standard height. Which I quite enjoy.

Look under the back end. See how low the back box is? thatll drag at -2" or less. So go carefull on the speedbumps, or parking 2 up, 2 down on a kerb.

Will handle better on low too. And look much cooler.

Just dont rattlecan it. Character ftw man.

by rattle can it? you mean paint it? i know the lowering game and handle game as i race minis and alwasy had vws lol but i mean how to do it on these bad boys. the holw argument where discovery shocks and 3 inch block on the back work well? and getting 75mm 220 springs and re filling front shocks

jamz wrote:i see that it was for sale a few times etc... its lovely and feels new! just riding so boucny and soft and high ive read so much stuff on lowering and stiffening etc and dunno what to beleive or do....

I've got a Y reg (83) 360 3 door, keeping it totally original as it's got 19,000 on the clock and I have another project for modifying etc. I know what you mean about the ride, personally I'd keep it original an a car like that but you could put in lower, stiffer springs, adjustable shocks and lowering blocks in the rear. That should help a lot without spoiling the car, and can of course be put back should you or anyone else want to return it to standard.

Check the tyres, if they are the original ones like mine had then it will be a nightmare (or great fun ) in the wet, the rubber was hard and I spun out pulling out of a T junction in the wet with only very light acceleration. I've got some old skinny tyres on my daily 340 and its really easy to lose the back end on roundabouts.

What Helldriver says is all true.

No off the shelf coilovers for 300s, so blocks at the back and shorter springs at the front for adding lows. Or chop if youre ghetto. But I wouldnt recomend it.

Adjustable dampers all round is expensive, but the yellow brick road to all that is holy.

Whats not to like about bobbling along and tilting into corners?

Normal highriding ride height is for winners.

landy shocks on rear makes it really hard but stops body roll and bounce on back? so will feel like my cheap vw coilovers lol

what about the front. the changing oil thing sounds bit dodgy so will just harder poundage springs stiffen the front up?

i will eventually get front coileys conversion or the calssic swede shocks. want it to handle and drift well IF needed but look original well apart from being lowerd 3inch

volvosneverdie wrote:What Helldriver says is all true.

Whats not to like about bobbling along and tilting into corners?

Normal highriding ride height is for winners.

I think the problem is the tilting away from the corners rather than the tilting in

Yes the adjustable shocks are not cheap

I'm no expert on these matters, I have still as yet to start my project , although I've been collecting quite a few parts. Another modification is to fit a thicker anti-roll bar, again not a cheap option. Polybushes to replace rubber should also help and are available for the 300's.

jamz wrote:landy shocks on rear makes it really hard but stops body roll and bounce on back? so will feel like my cheap vw coilovers lol

what about the front. the changing oil thing sounds bit dodgy so will just harder poundage springs stiffen the front up?

i will eventually get front coileys conversion or the calssic swede shocks. want it to handle and drift well IF needed but look original well apart from being lowerd 3inch

Yeah you'll be best starting off getting classic swede adjustables on the back, blocks and then some lowering springs for the front and go from there.

Also don't bother stripping out the interior, it weighs nothing! If you do decide to put buckets in or whatever, make sure you save the seats for resale, I've never seen interior in that colour before!

Also if you can't decide how much to go down by, about 2" on the back is your limit without scraping things and maybe 2-3" on the front (front is slightly higher)

Hi,

Good to see the car is sold and going to a good home ...

Seems like an eternity that I went down to Bradford-on-Avon in Wiltshire (early Jan) where it came from even though the car was sold prior to my visit.

But that town is really stunning and well worth a visit, so thank you Volvo 360 2.0 ...

Don't worry I'll look after it and do the right things. I'll start a build thread once I start playing

Just buy adjustables - compared to other cars they're very cheap. Fully adjustable suspension for sub £300?? TIght gits

More like 450 with springs and blocks and I nearly paid that for the car. Will eventually mind

Don't worry James, you say landy shocks and most people think of this



They are skittish but just don't drive like a chav in his first Saxo and you'll be alright. The thing is, most people on here are building fast road cars/dailys so for fast country laning, blasts around the block etc, landy shocks will end with you in a wall. Normal daily driving will be fine as you probably know already.

Not only this but using them as a daily is ok if you're already used to lowered cars but for a lot of first timers, they get bored and leave without finishing the car. You'll be fine though, people just love to panic because it's such a rare colour/model

I have had lowered cars, race cars and cars in coileys my whole driving life. I just want it to be hard and not flubberey lol. I will keep the car nice but I am going to modify it as its what I enjoy but I do subtle Rare oem stuff visually so don't worry I won't ruin the car and if I sold it could be put back to standard

Awesome, that colour gives you so many option for wheels dude. It should look awesome on just about anything.

Are you on Retro Rides at all?