aye, you are right like.

here's a diagram of the main problem, incase my explanation wasn't all that great and because i've done no work for my graphics course and thought i should do SOMETHING even if it's not even vaguely related haha



Cheers,
Matt

have you done the bolts up on the gearbox-tube. They should be loose until you do up the clamp. It will give you a little movement to get the shafts in the right place. If the drive shaft has shifted in the bearings a bit you might need to wack it up a bit, but doesn't look too far off. The bearbox bolts will reset it once they are done up.

I had this problem once, it turned out I didn't have the clamp on in the right position, so from the inspection holes it looked misaligned yet all it needed was pushing along a bit. More likely what ride_on said though from your diagram.

Agree with them both.

The prop slides in the bearings fairly easily too, when you removed/stored it it could have got knocked a bit.

Nothing is insurmountable dude, just keep swimming :p (Plus, I need a passenger ride with this LSD soon :p)

Cheers Guys!

I never took the torque tube off the car and I guess the prop can't move further forwards as the other end sits in the spigot bearing in the flywheel. I used the torque tube - gearbox bolts to pull the box towards the tube once i'd got the prop into the clamp. I'll try putting one bolt in the gearbox side and try and lever the clamp towards the engine side and the same with the torque tube side and pull towards the gearbox. I had both bolts out and the clamp moved pretty easily along both splined sections.

Cheers for the advice i'll try it and let you's know. Next time we meet mate

Good luck dude, just don't pre-stress it, don't want "Williams/valver bellhousing failure" syndrome! Weather is drying out and evenings are getting longer, time is increasing!

as are my college hours unforunately. march 11th being next time i can work on it Need to sort new linkages though. thinking of welding up a plate that bolts in from the top of the transmission tunnel to hold the ball of the lever.

after i sort the gearlinkages and the prop, then it's just putting the new exhaust on and a radius arm mount and i'll be good to go. Hopefully i can get all that done in 3 days

Prop's sorted, got it drivable and did 10 miles. Gearlinkages need re-making, exhaust needs some welding and tightening, other rear wheel bearing needs doing and still not done the radius arm mount. Got another cople of days this week, see if i can't get her working good again.

70 miles tonight

Found it's a non-pas downpipe, thus why it wont fully tighten and catches the steering. Gearlinkages will be sorted next monday/tuesday, thought of a lovely simple solution which I'll post up when I know it works and I have pics. Wheel bearing is noisy but its when i turn left and the weight is on the right wheel so makes sense i should have changed the right hand bearing instead of the left lol. Then It's just adjust the clutch and it should be pretty much good

got 3 wheels satin black as of today after i did the radius arm mount which turned out to be ok, just the end nut was loose, I'd previously tightened it while the bush wasn't sat in the cup properly.

LSD seems to be working fine like, gearbox and diff hasn't leaked a drip which is very surprising haha. I'll try get some photos at some point

Ahh, it's all good when everythings fixed. Good job dude

cheers, it's nearly there. Swap the downpipe, retrain the gearlinkages and the other rear wheel bearing and it'll be great. Got monday to wednesday off next week so 3 days to do that ... fingers crossed. Had the first sideways action tonight since a long time ago so am happy, even though the diff's started to leak the tinyest bit lol

I took a vid with the dashcam which i might get up tomorrow

Great news. Its awesome when everything comes together! I'm looking forward to the vid!

Here's a dash cam video from yesterday on my way home. It's nowt amazing or mad drifting or anything.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjW_4Decl1A

What poundage springs would be good for my car? I don't have much clue but will be buying some new ones soon. does 300lb/ft sound ok? I want to retain a bit of comfort but still be sporty. I have ebay 40mm lowering springs atm. not a clue what poundage but they are nice, maybe a tad stiffer would be good.

Im running 250 and its fine for road use. Soaks up most bumps. You feel pot holes etc more but improved handling. Im planning on going stiffer, about 500 lbs as i want the front stiffer still.

ah right, I'll probably go for 300-350 ish i reckon. Also jon, do you know what the difference between the tops of s13 dampers and volvo ones are, as regards topmount fit