It's about time I put some expensive oil in my engine. Always used halfords semi synthetic because a little bird told me the manufacturer wasn't actually that bad at making oil. My questions are:

Should I go fully synthetic?

What is a good quality oil I can buy that will protect my engine?

I'm no expert, but what I've snapped up over the years is that the synthetic "racing" 0W-xx oils are a lot thinner, which can cause older cars to leak oil. Remember, these oils weren't even around when our cars were new.

I tend to go for the cheapest oil from a well-known brand (usually Total, although I just snapped up 5L of Liqui Moly for 14,99€), avoiding the no-name stuff from DIY stores. 15W40 in summer, 10W40 in winter and I try & change regularly. Better to change a basic oil more often, then leaving an expensive oil in for too long ... The filter on 360s is a bugger to change, so I only swap that every other change.

With that technique, my 360s got 333000kms on the clock now, and I only need to top up once between oil changes.

Tom

i agree with that on every stock 300 engine

but, speedy has a rebuilt 16V lump. so full synthetic oil shouldn't be a problem and can even keep the engine in a perfect condition.
just don't extend the oil service intervals just because there is "better oil" in it, that's not the point of a better quality oil

volvodspec wrote:speedy has a rebuilt 16V lump. so full synthetic oil shouldn't be a problem

Ah, I forgot

Tom

I put semi synthetic in my 1.7 (Old 8 valve engine) Yes it did cause a very small oil leak at first but when the engine warmed up it stopped and now the leaks gone completely (I suppose the oil's thickened a bit with use?). Regular oil and filter changes are well worth it, I change the transit every 8,000 to 12,000 miles approx, even though the spec is 18,000. It does a lot of work and you've got to allow for the time the engine is running when your idling if you do a lot of town driving. If you drive it hard and also do a lot of short trips change it much sooner than the standard interval.

Well remembered anjo Should have made it more clear... Ok sounds right, I was thinking of starting on some Mobil 1 full synth oil this time around but I'm not sure how much better it would be than hellfrauds or other cheaper makes.

Use a decent oil filter too.

OEM Volvo ones for me (and I use them on other cars where they'll fit). Failing that, Mann

I'm using Fuch oil from GSF, which was £12.99 for 5ltrs and apparently it's what the German manufacturers use at the factory.

I found a NOS Renault 5/9/21/25 oil filter in the garage from when my dad had either his 5 or 21 Turbo. It was a lot wider and taller than the new genuine Renault filter i put on last time, so figured a bigger filter can only be an improvement.

macplaxton wrote:Use a decent oil filter too.
OEM Volvo ones for me (and I use them on other cars where they'll fit). Failing that, Mann

+1 to that, look out for a filter with a non-return valve, ensuring the filter doesn't lose all it's oil when the engine is off. Bosch filters have these too, Mann as well IIRC, but Mahle filters don't.

Cheers

Tom

Last month I bought a couple and they were about £7.50 each.

Beware you get the correct one.

Me: "two IMPERIAL 3/4 UNF filters please"
Volvo Parts Counter Guy: "what's it for"
Me: "1982 Volvo 343"
Volvo Parts Counter Guy: "ah yes, that one outside?"
Me: "That's the one"

Volvo Parts Counter Guy disappears into the stores

And he comes back with two METRIC ones

Me: "No, I want two of those like you got on the shelf. You see that on the side?"
Volvo Parts Counter Guy: "Yes"
Me: "That says 1984-ONWARDS. The old ones use IMPERIAL threaded filters."
Volvo Parts Counter Guy: "Er, okay"

Volvo Parts Counter Guy disappears into the stores again]

Finally comes back with the right ones.

3517857 is 3/4UNF-16 Imperial thread. Fits Volvo cars 1962-> Excl. Diesel, Dieselturbo & 340 B 14 1985->
3467632 is M20 x 1.5 Metric thread. Fits Volvo 300: B 14 '85-, B 172, D16 / Volvo 400 all models exclusive D 19 T

(Someone might know the chassis number / engine number change-over points as I'm not running Windows to look it up at the moment)