So then who's got a F7P/R in their car with the manifold flipped to keep the original heaters?

My reason for asking is this, my heaters seem to be on ALL the time even with the control set to cold i still have heat coming into the footwells and the dash side vents. I hadn't really noticed in the winter, but now we are getting this hot weather it makes driving the old girl a rather uncomfortable hot sticky affair!

When i set the temp control slider to cold about a quarter from the end it sort of "kicksback" on itself. I can make it stay in the fully cold setting but can't fine adjust it as the "kickback" effect won't allow it.

The Haynes manual states for refitting of the control cable 6/ "Pull the outer cable taut, close the heater control valve (move lever away from the cable clamp, then tighten the screw in the clamp (early type) , or fit the spring clip (later type).

7/Hook the inner cable of the air shutter flap to the air shutter lever and move the shutter to the closed position

8/Pull the outer cable taut and tighten the clamp

9/ Check that the heater control valve and air shutter flap operate over the full range.


Well i have the later type, but i don't seem to have a clamp for the outer cable, it just simply hooks onto the water control valve.
I've fitted it all as per above instructions, but clearly i don't have the "full range" as it has the kickback bit.

So what have i done wrong? Or if you are running a Renault lump do they just run hotter anyway therefore letting hot air into the cabin?

Cheers

Might be a silly question but you have the water feed from the thermostat to the control side of the heater matrix not the other way ? Or your control thingy in the pipe is bust?

Hope it helps in some way lol

It could be the control valve itself, they do get leaky after a while ...

Tom

yetis340 wrote:Might be a silly question but you have the water feed from the thermostat to the control side of the heater matrix not the other way ? Or your control thingy in the pipe is bust?

Hope it helps in some way lol

Never fear, silly questions are always warranted when i'm asking something

But yep, it is fitted the correct way round.

The valve could possibly be knackered, whats the betting it's not an easy to get hold of part

You say you don't have a clamp on the valve dude?

I have a non flipped manifold and style have a heater :p

Pop the bonnet, and turn the valve by hand, it should be an easyish reach. you can put it to permanently off I'd imagine.

The clamp is a standard chock cable/throttle cable/heater cable affair, just a bit of spring steel so scrappies should have squillions.

Chris_C wrote:You say you don't have a clamp on the valve dude?

I have a non flipped manifold and style have a heater :p

Pop the bonnet, and turn the valve by hand, it should be an easyish reach. you can put it to permanently off I'd imagine.

The clamp is a standard chock cable/throttle cable/heater cable affair, just a bit of spring steel so scrappies should have squillions.

Yeah i've got a clamp, the spring type thing holding the control cable onto the valve. It's just the Haynes shows another one right by the bulkhead where the outer cable comes through. Is that the early type?

Thats what i'm saying even when set to closed by the heater controls or manually under the bonnet i still get heat coming in?

Hmmm, thats sounds like a shagged valve doesn't it.

Want to have a compare of plumbing at some point? I picked up another GLT grill last weekend too

Yeah i guess it is a knackered valve then

With that in mind i went round the local breakers, i.e Bridges and a little one in Dorking.
I forgot Bridges don't let you into the "old" car yard on the right now unless it's Saturday
Dorking said no, apparently not seen a 300 in years.

I did get chatting with a rather deaf old chap on the way home about the 300 in his driveway, so that could be up for grabs soon. Nothing exciting, late model 5dr 340 1.4, but low miles, and the only rot i could see was the bonnet edge.