How simple is Getting shot of the PAS and sticking a manual rack in?

I have a manual rack off a '83 360 that seems spot on and quite fancy getting shot of the PAS for a few more miles to the gallon

Is it as simple as getting rid of all the PAS stuff, then just swapping the rack?

Also any easy mods that could be carried out on the new rack while its off the car?

Thanks for the help!
Matt

There was something about removing stop collars on a rack for a bit more lock, but don't know whether it is a technically good or advisable mod.

Something in the back of my mind also points to the PAS rack having an associated steering column to go with it. Again hazy on the detail. Other than that, it's would appear to be a straightforward substitution/removal of redundant parts.

It's not a complicated system so if you got all the manual parts as well as a collumn, I don't see how it couldn't be done in a weekend.

i've got the rack, guibo/flex disk rubber thing, next bit and the universal joint, plus all the mounts for the rack, and the subframe it bolts too but its rotten

hmm, unless it's definately advisable it wont happen :/

cheers for the help, i'll keep researching see if i can find which, if any, bits are the same

EDIT:

The rack i have has the UJ about 8" above the rack it's self whereas, as far as i can tell, the PAS rack has it 'bout an inch above :/ It's do-able though. could cut teh pinion shaft on the new (non-pas) rack down and grind down the sides to fit the UJ off the PAS column. Only problem then is that I'd be getting rid of the guibo vibration dampner, is it really important? i remember people after them a bit ago, remember BX ones fit lol. if people want them, I guess they are needed :/ could add it higher i suppose

all V300 can be converted to PAS or vice versa, you just need a few parts.. take a look at the parts catalogs for any specific brackets etc.

what you need is the non PAS rack, wich bolts to the subframe directly on the RH side, and with 2 brackets on the LH side, then the vibration damper and the next bit of collumn, wich is about 20/25cm long with a T shape all splined and ready to bolt in, you just have to undo the coupling on the inside near the pedals.

if you're selling the PAS kit, keep the old bit that is replaced with the T (and all the other stuff offcourse:p) as you need it to get it to fit in another V300

volvodspec wrote:all V300 can be converted to PAS or vice versa, you just need a few parts..

ALL V300 Anjo? I thought the B172 engined cars were a problem - at least in RHD form - something to do with the sump getting in the way? I presume the same issue might arise with the RHD D16/F8M?

Thanks for the info!

I have the non-PAS rack, the two brackets for the LH side, The vibration damper (in brand new condition) and the next bit of the column which, yes, is about 20 cm long BUT i don't quite get the 'T shape' and 'splines' bit? On the end of the bit I have the round bar is flattened on two sides to slot into a UJ. I also have the UJ

EDIT: the 'T' shaped bit is the part that bolts to the vibration damper yeah? get it now - just not the splines :/

Here's a photo:



Also, are these parts catalogues available anywhere on the net? Or a proper volvo-own parts website database? I used to use 'Peugeot Servicebox' when i had my peugeot - was the same thing peugeot used them-selves

But yeah, big thanks for the help!

You should not need the crossmember, should be standard, probably is not going to give you any increase in mpg as it only drags on the engine when you are turning the wheel. Non-pas 360 are heavy steering, especially if you have good tyres although you can get used to it.

To be honest I would not bother.

Hmm, was also thinking simplicity and with a potential engine swap in the semi-near future, i thourght it might be difficult to get pas to work with a 940 engine and the 360 parts plus turbo exhaust routing might get tight with the pas rack? I suppose i can always swap it back, could do with getting some muscles haha. 7J wheels on 195's but with part worn budgets

I'm not sure on how good my rack is too, keep getting vibrations even though i've checked just about every bush, suspension part, wheel balancing etc.

More feedback?

Nimminz wrote:could do with getting some muscles haha. 7J wheels on 195's but with part worn budgets

FWIW, Fake on 195's, on a 7J and the F7R (which Foggy reckons is around the same weight as a redblock, they are both iron block, mine has a bigger head obviously so won't argue) and rebuild top mounts and ball joints steers as light as my PAS'd Corset, as long as you are moving. It's the same weight when parallel parking for example, just not when stationary. PAS isn't a solution for not fixing the top mounts

Look to see where the pump is on a 940T

Cheers, I always steer only when the car is moving, even though I have pas, just one of those good habits

Dunno if the 2l turbo lump I might be getting would come with pas pump and id rather not fork out for another.

I was thinking of the top mounts dai does, cant remember seeing anyone who had em tho. Both balljoints and nearly all te bushes are new on the car so - with new top mounts - should be good. Gonna finish cleaning the rack and brackets up, get new mounting bolts

I'm really used to the 940 steering now which is a light as a feather. Going to hard going back to non-pas.

Well I might be going back on this, althought it might be a problem with the LSD. I have most of the parts I need to change to PS, but not sure about the alternator and my parts database just shows that same bracket as the non-pas, it this correct? There is nowhere to bolt the adjuster to.

What parts do I need to move the alternator? Is it like the 940 non-ac?

Edit to say, forgot the alternator stays where it is, and the PS pump is on the other side. Thinking 940 doh! Gonna have to modify the coil pack mount though.