Was driving one night and noticed the fuel gauge, rev counter, temp gauge and most of the dash lights had stopped working.
Swapped another set of clocks in, same issue.
Bent the fingers out on the connectors slightly too, still didn't help.
Checks all fuses, nope.
Have cleaned up the earths I can find, the one under the column, the piggyback one that attached to the speedo cable and the main one on the battery tray, and still nothing.

Any advice?

The biggest source of electrical problems are the connections on the back of the fuse box. You need to remove it (which is a pain, limbo-ing into the driver footwell) and clean/tighten all the male-female connections there!

I'll give that a shot tomorrow when hopefully my Renault is mot'd.
I will add that one of the prongs on one of the lower fuse holders (could have been 17) is broken I think, it wobbles about.
I can always use the fuse box from my breaker if all else fails.
I understand the fuse for the gauges is 9.

I've seen this too, but giving the wire loom a bit of a wobble showed it up for me. The connectors were all burnt.

Multiplug on the inside of the bulkhead (back of fusebox) as BogBasic and Ride_On say. Clean the 4 way earth terminal whilst you are there too. I'm trying to find the topic with pictures.... here we go, I imagine this is what you will find
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=9808#p121600

Had a look today, fuse box plugs and fuse box all look brand new.
I've got continuity between the earth pins on the gauge connectors and the body so I believe the earths are all okay.
I need to check if there's a common live between the fuel gauge, temp gauge, rev counter and most of the dash lights.
The indicator lights, heated screen light, headlamp light and main beam light still work as well as the dash lights.




Anyone know what this is for?



These two were taped up with electrical tape behind the clocks, one has two brown wires going to a female spade the other has two black and red wires going to a female spade.



Also this by the fuse box

The round spade thing looks a little like part of the carb heater, but I'm not sure, is it a B200K?

Round spade is the correct colour wire for the carb heater certainly, but don't know what the connection looks like on the carb'd 360's from memory.

Black/red trace and the earth you found taped up are for the ambient temp gauge sender

White with black trace by the fuse box, all mine have had that unplugged, maybe something for CVT? I've never looked it up.

Cheers, tis a 1.7 340 with solex carb so will have a look regarding where that's meant to go.
Still totally stumped in the case of the gauges though, was hoping it'd be one of these needing plugged in

1.7... I'd normally expect that blue with red trace to have a pair of female 1/4" on the end, one for the carb and the second... for something that I can't remember having not looked at it for a while.

Although, your's is an '87, so every chance that the water heated/cooled carb base was present originally/still? That might have been a changeover. Not super helpful on your gauges discussion though, sorry!

Still not fixed gauges, not sure on carb heater but car seems to run great.

One plus though

Okay, no live to gauges, not sure where the problem lies as I'm getting 12v between each side of the fuse and earth.
If all else fails I'm going to wire an ignition live via an inline fuse to the gauge live.

do the 340s have a gauge light dimmer? on the cluster surround? could be that, or a shady headlight switch.

Suitable workaround applied! I'll post this for anyone who may experience this/becomes equally as pissed off as I have been.
Basically there was a fault in the wiring/connectors between the fuse box and the clocks, there was 12v to the fuse though.
I soldered a wire to the fuse holder and routed that directly to the black/red wire on the clock connector and it works fine now, no need for an inline fuse this way either.
Bit of a workaround but it works