Page 1 of 1

Door removal

Posted: 30 Dec 2014 09:08 pm
by 360beast
After nearly two years of owning my 360 I am finally starting to restore it!

Have bought new sills for both sides and want to know how do I get the doors off? If someone could please explain it would be greatly appreciated.

Re: Door removal

Posted: 30 Dec 2014 10:45 pm
by Hell Driver
Here is how I did it, there's some comments from others here too I think

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=11821&hilit=jak+74w


It's 5 years since I got the Mk1, so 2 years isn't too bad!

Started dismantling over a year ago, must get on with it this year!

Re: Door removal

Posted: 31 Dec 2014 01:58 am
by bogbasic
There's also year 7 of my blog {^¿^}

Re: Door removal

Posted: 31 Dec 2014 03:49 am
by Ride_on
Yeah the bottom hinge pin is the tricky one. I used all my remover pins to do the 2 doors, they were knackered after. The M8 bar trick migh be worth trying, but you will have to cut the pin off bit by bit as it comes out, dremel? It hits the door as you knock it out.

Top pin can be knocked out easy enough with a good punch or even a screwdriver, but it needs a good wack.

The rear doors just unbolt.

I did the sills with the front doors on, but off would be better.

Re: Door removal

Posted: 31 Dec 2014 09:49 am
by 360beast
Admittedly I have spent those two years gathering repair panels, a Volvo 760 tic engine donor and every oem optional extra I can get my hands on.

Now I have everything I need I can finally start, didn't want to start and get pieces as I went because I would never have had the money and would have just had a 360 in pieces for two years!

Thanks for the link hell driver, did I read that right and you can hit the bottom pin down? So far everything has come off easily lets hope the door pins (covered in grease for some reason) aren't rusted too. Need to fix my drivers top hinge anyway cause it's sagging (thanks for the hinges thoddod)

Re: Door removal

Posted: 02 Jan 2015 04:23 pm
by 360beast
Literally took 10 mins to remove both doors, top one I just knocked straight down with a drift. Bottom one I chopped an m8 bolt into three sections. Knocked the roll pin about half way up and slotted the bits of bolt in one by one and continued to knock it out with the drift and it came out easily.

Re: Door removal

Posted: 02 Jan 2015 08:22 pm
by Ride_on
You will find more to do, especially when you remove the sills and start hacking. Even if you start with a quick job idea, you may well catch the perfection bug. I think 'what is the point is putting on new sills if there are rusted seams to sort etc'.

Have backup bodge materials to hand, like rust coverter, and use encapsulator, rust bullet or epoxy resin.

Re: Door removal

Posted: 02 Jan 2015 08:51 pm
by 360beast
Ride_on wrote:You will find more to do, especially when you remove the sills and start hacking. Even if you start with a quick job idea, you may well catch the perfection bug. I think 'what is the point is putting on new sills if there are rusted seams to sort etc'.

Have backup bodge materials to hand, like rust coverter, and use encapsulator, rust bullet or epoxy resin.
:lol: I am a perfectionist so I am replacing the entire sills with NOS items from Klokkerholm and rust proofing the entire lot as I go along and the seams are rusted at the top so will be repairing them and sealing them properly. Also will paint behind the rear door hinges where they bolt to the body cause there's no paint there at all!

The interior I finished ages ago as it only needed a few minor details and it is in brilliant condition just a some cracking on the drivers seat (leather) but that doesn't bother me tbh.

Even the air con works just need to get it regassed, the only work that "needs" to be done is rust repairs