hi there, everyone. glad to see the site back up.
here's my recent trouble with my '89 340 DL vario:
when idling (it doesn't matter whether engine is hot or cold), or sometimes even just travelling at very low speeds, it idles really rough and usually ends up cutting out. the rpms jump varying widely from around 300-1000 until finally they drop too low and it dies.
this happened in stop-and-go traffic on the M1 a few weeks ago, and after checking the carb bolts, etc, i had to call out the RAC guy.
he said it was the spring on the manual choke cable that was slipping and causing the engine to flood sometimes. he tweaked a little enough to last for the drive home, but now i need to replace it now. the problem is, the guy drove off before i could ask him to show the part he was talking about. i've looked in the volvo 300 haynes manual and the weber carb haynes manual, but i can't find anything that fits this description.
any advice?
thanks!

I think it is the part of the cable near the top (but I could be wrong), if you change the whole choke cable this should resolve the issue.

I seem to remember having a similar issue on the 360

thanks!
i will have a look at that this weekend... if it ever stops raining!
b

okay, the cable seems to be fine. i think i've fixed the problem... which seems to have been my fault in the first place. when i bought the car, it was missing 1 of the 3 screws that hold the air filter housing unit to the carb. i replaced that screw with one that was 1cm longer than the original, and that extra length seems to have been interfereing with the choke linkage beneath it.
but now... i've torn the paper gasket under the air filter housing unit. so, i have 2 new questions:
1) anyone know where i can order paper gaskets for my carb (weber 32DIR109)?
2) any advice on how to keep these 3 screws in place (the threads are pretty worn)? i've tried lock-tite, but one keeps coming loose. is there any way to rework the threads?
thanks!
b

bt6 wrote:i've torn the paper gasket under the air filter housing unit. so, i have 2 new questions:
1) anyone know where i can order paper gaskets for my carb (weber 32DIR109)?

Affie never did have one of those





The guys at the garage retapped the three threads on Sausage, so I know it can be done. Being totally mechanically inept, though, it's all a mystery to me...

I've re-tapped Kar's carb threads... another option I know a few people have done is drill the holes out completely, and a nut and exactly correct length bolt through. I havn't tried the last option myself, but at first glance seems a reaonsable idea, as it's the carb thats the softest part

i would honestly advise just buying a whole new carb - they're not that hard to come by, and a lot less hassle than replacing the filter and doing the bolts.

aren't carbs kind of pricey? i only paid £250 for the car in the first place. anyhoo, i've found a solution i'm going to try, i think. i'd like opinions on this, however. before i attempt to retap the threads, i thought i might try this product that i've come across in an auto supply store in the states. here's the web ad:

****FORM-A-THREAD® Stripped Thread Repair, .44 oz. net wt. kit


Makes reliable thread repairs without drills, taps, tools or inserts. Restores worn, stripped or damaged threads and eliminates future corrosion, galling, seizing and rust. Effective up to 128 ft. lbs. of torque and between -65°F to 300°F. Repairs most metal to metal fasteners up to SAE grade 5 English and 8.8 metric (coarse and fine).

Suggested Applications: #Intake manifold bracket fastener threads, timing chain cover bolt threads, valve cover bolt threads, water pump bolt threads****


think this might work on the air filter housing screws? also, since the paper gasket doesn't appear to be that necessary, and none of the carb parts suppliers i've talked to know about it, i'm going to try making one of my own out of stiff paper/thin cardboard. will let you know how it goes...

ta, everyone.
b

a second hand carb off ebay or a breakers shouldnt set you back more than £30 or so..

Are those thread repair things the insert type things, look like a metal spring? If so I've heard they work, don't know if they would in the ali though. Problem with buying a s/h carb is you need to see it, to check the threads. A decent garage will tap yours if you are not keen.

Helicoils a desighned to strengthen soft material threads. The can be used to give materials like plastic and soft metals a strong thread. This would be a good way to fix your carb.
I would repair your carb if it is working as second hand replacment often dont work very well.

Dai

talking about manual choke cables.

theres nothing wrong with my one just the light stays on even when the choke is off.

i chased the problem down to being that the cable slighly sits out a bit when fully pushed in and hence the light flicks on.

how do i adjust the cable so that it goes in a little more and so that the light dnt keep on flicking on.

Take out the slack of the choke where it mounts to the car, Also check where the spade connector attaches to the choke cable uner the choke knob.
Cheers Adam

well, i'm back in the uk after 3 weeks in the u.s. i picked up some scary gluey stuff for locking threads in cars. i don't think they sell it here.
thanks for all the tips.
my current carb is fine, so i don't want to go from the pan to the fire on trying out another used one. i've glued everything down today, plus repaired the paper gasket with some gasket epoxy. we'll see how it goes...

I know im a bit late on this one but new paper gaskets for between the carb and the air filter are about 30p from volvo.....

I personally find that when replacing it, I keep the old one is place and then fit the new one over it... this way theres more chance of the
gasket(s) sealing properly. As for the thread repair, one of my previous 340s had this but we fitted? made new bracket to hold the side of the air filter instead of replacing the carb bolts....