The Volvo was in the bodyshop last week to have a few bits of rust sorted:
Before
After
I asked if they’d waxoyl the car for me, but they don’t do it. Also, when he was in the dealers on Monday for a service I asked them, but they don’t either.
Is it something I can do myself? I don’t have a driveway, so any work has to be done with the car parked on the road. What do I need to buy? Does anyone know of a place in the East Midlands that do undertake rust proofing? I’m surprised that it seems to be so hard to get someone to do it for me.
I restored an Triumph GT6 2 years ago and did all the work myself, instructions can be found on the packing or on the net, It's best to do this whilst the car isn't outside in freezing weather, but if that's all you have wait until it warms up slightly before you do it as it protects better if it gets a chance to cure rather than go off with contact to a cold surface.
Best of luck Gavin, but it shouldn't be that much of a problem to do.
SteveP wrote:How much does this sort of thing cost?
The bits shown above, plus the area behind the rear number plate and some work on a door, came to £185+vat.
On the one hand, that's probably more than the car is worth. The last book price I saw was £150! On the other hand, I've lost two 340s to rust, so hopefully a little investment now will help keep this one going for a good few years.
I've no idea how much bodywork stuff costs - all I know is that its expensive I really need some sill and rear arch repairs doing at some point - once the weather gets better!
Book price for 300s is a joke, If I were you I'd look up trying to get an agreed value policy or something - last think you want is insurance messing you about
Also - now you've got the rust removed from that door - I'd recommend replacing all of the door window scrapers with new, none brittle ones - I believe you can get these from the dealers still (albeit in 3 door form, needing to be cut down).
My seams are going along the top (?!?!) there too, I though that would be a new sill job. Not that bad yet, but anyone know if it's out of my league? I've done a few arch repairs now.
Waxoiling is easy, but make sure you wear old clothes!! If you're using a brush and tin (like I did recently) a good tip is to take a saucepan of hot water out with you to keep the waxoil in to stop it going hard.
Oh, and white spirit is good for getting it off your skin at the end of it!
Carl
Rover SD1 Vitesse (and no Volvos )
But previously:
1988 Volvo 360GLT
1988 Volvo 360GLT
1984 Volvo 340DL www.carlgibbs.com/gallery
As above, but Dinitrol is a much better product, and they do loads of different Dinitrols. You can buy a brown slightly thinner one that penetrates seams and according to 'Practical Classics' can actually penetrate stuff that's already rusted its thin so you can spray it into all the cavities and box sections. They also do a black one that's really thick that you can paint underneath the car.
I bought a kit including spray gun that you can attach to a compressor if you have one. Cost 100 quid but rust is a LOT more expensive to repair, but I noticed that Halfords do an aerosol can of the brown one.
I haven't Dinitrol'd mine yet but will do when the weather warms up, like August
i've got the Halfords one and used it to slow down some rust pattches at the bottom front corner of the two front doors. I'll det them patched asap. Seems to work OK as I've only used it where there no chance of contact with clothes.
Very true about the hot water, the stuff needs to be kept warm, thinners does definitly work for getting the stuff of clothes, Dinitrol is good as you can get many different types, but you can't beat good old waxoyl, at least when you said that you've waxoyled your car in the pub people know what you mean, but all the products on the market are good, it's just down to personal prefference, well worth the investment in time to protect your car!!
I'm with Andy, aka Pettaw, Dintrol is the more versatile stuff. I've been intending to do my cars for some time, never got around to it this year sadly, so as suggested, once it warms up a bit I'll be attacking them with the Dinitrol.
On a patch where the rust had started on my Dad's 360 GLT saloon on the leading edge of the bonnet while he was using it, well over 8 years ago he put some dinitrol on it. It stopped the rust dead, and it hasn't got any worse since! So it has sold itself to me.
Gavin, dead impressed with the work they've done, I know they're only small patches, but for the quality the cost isn't too bad. The matching of tha paint looks good from the pictures too.
I have one small patch on a a rear arch that needs replacing, hopefully my Uncle will weld a bit in for me at some point. The paint it the part that worries me most, but my Dad should be able to make a good job of that, and white is probably a better colour to do than red was!
Pete
G reg 360 GLT, G reg 340 GL Variomatic, plus many more..........
- broken
