We think we know, but can anyone confirm how to cable up the resistor block? Carls done the multi-meter thing but we dont want to mess it up! Cheers!

OK, don't take this as gospel, this is from the Green books but Volvo have a knack of switching things about, but if it confirms what Carl's already found:

The White wire is position 1, and goes to the connector with the most coils of wire attached.

The Yellow wire is position 2 and should go to the connector halfway between the coils.

The red wire coming from the car goes to the straight through connection.

The other red wire going to the fan goes onto the safety cutoff.

Hope that helps.

Cheers Andy, we'll give it a go and see!

Well, we fitted it and it works!! Yey!

Good news Glad to help.

Don't mean to p*ss on the caampfire, but the one I stole off you Gem has letters related to the wire colour printed on it Although I didn't see them, and tried to work out the wiring for a bit. It it sounds right though, you've got it right, they'd have been a bang otherwise!

That reassuring Chris! Definitely no bang! How are you getting on with the new production line?! Its nice to know my old knackered resistor may help a whole new breed!

Me and Andy had a session on it the other day (I needed an excuse to not do coursework...) Had a few ideas, well, I did, and Andy wanted to be all technical about it Definately possible though, and they wouldn't break as quick, as I reckon I can replace the bi-metal with an RCD

Excellent.

Chris_C wrote:I reckon I can replace the bi-metal with an RCD

Someone buy this man a pimp-stick, as he's that good he's ready to join a badass gangsta rap posse!

cheers

James

Hold your horses dude, got to do some field testing, which Andy is hopefully gonna be helping with soon. I reckons we are 75% through th ehard design stage, then gonna do some costings. Theres several ways I can tackle this, uber pimp version, on brand new custom PCB's, is what I'd be keen for, so we don't have any of this heat fatigue that Gemmas is showing (cos as soon as they break, they overheat, and b*gger the PCB's up, not to mention they are old skool '70s and '80s PCB's, materials have improved a bit)

Initial guessing here, but £25-30 seem reasonable to people? I'm hoping they will be less, but depends on how many are getting done.

It'd be good to keep the cost down as much as possible, but I think the lower end of that scale is within what most people would call reasonable for a custom low-volume unit.

cheers

James

Erm, just had a recent developement, which also needs field testing, but looking like i might have got the price down a tad, to around £15-£20... I'm going to hopefully give it a test over the weekend. Keep you posted.

Right, recent developement is a part in the ECP catalogue, for nigh on £17. I do have to check it works first though