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Well me and Steve went along to Rotorstock III last weekend as it was at Shakespeare county raceway fairly local to us, was a good couple of days, nice weather (both of us have sunburn now!) so thought i'd share some pictures:
Sid hanging it out in a pretty much standard 1.7 in the dry! He was really impressive all weekend, when it rained he could link the whole course!
something like a 6" exhaust going miles back under the car!
The 1.7 has... no air filter, rear half of the exhaust removed, removed the rear seats and rear trim panels, welded diff, Nev's 7x13 minilites on the front and standard rear steels on the back with 175 tyres, not sure of the profile but something pretty small. Lowering blocks and cut front springs and a big rev counter inside. It looked mighty hard work in the dry but was really impressive, could almost link the track in the dry but you could just see it running out of power stopping him from making the last link up.
I've got a few more pics of the 340 that I'll stick up when I get home along with some other pics. The 340 wasn't doing badly atall - infact along with a Sierra they were doing bloody nice jobs of the course for what they were.
That shows how to do it well. I think you need to pull the cover plate off the back of the differential and then you should be able to see 4 gears inside. You then need to cut a plate to the right size and weld all the gears together as seen in the photo. Then you need to rotate it 180degrees and do the same on the other side. I'm not sure of how this works on our cars but thats the basic principle, apparently you can do it with the diff still on the car
Last edited by Ali on 01 Jun 2006 05:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
That shows how to do it well. I think you need to pull the cover plate off the back of the differential and then you should be able to see 4 gears inside. You then need to cut a plate to the right size and weld all the gears together as seen in the photo. Then you need to rotate it 180degrees and do the same on the other side. I'm not sure of how this works on our cars but thats the basic principle, apparently you can do it with the diff still on the car
Do it with the diff in the car would be awesome, cause my mechanic syas that it took some serious time to take it out and then put in bak again.
The opinion of someone who has already made it on a 300 is needed... eheh
Do you know what type of welding is nedded?
I don't understand anything of that, I only know that he has a semi automatic welding machine, whatever that is.
| 92' 965 Turbo 16v | B204FT - 190hp |
Had: 90' 340 GL + Turbo | B18 FT | Koni's | Alpina White |
Apparently Arc welding is better than MIG welding for doing the diff, TIG also works but I doubt your mechanic will have that. Arc is with a stick and you have to feed it in yourself but MIG is semi-automatic in that you squeeze a trigger and it automatically feeds the wire in. MIG should be fine though as long as you turn up the power so that it gets a good penetrating weld.
Its almost there, all it needs is the diff welding and possibly a hydraulic handbrake but I don't really want to drive it on the roads like that so i'm waiting until I have another road car, I have a few other things on the way before then though hopefully