Correct way to connect ammeter?

Post by **Tero Huikko** » 23 Jul 2006 11:02 am

Help!

I'm confused...vdo circuitry shows dull connection to battery positive and alternator positive...

My brain tells me no because if connected like that the ammeter carries the starter load when cranking.

How would you guys connect the ammeter?

Post by **Chris_C** » 23 Jul 2006 02:16 pm

This is the reason I don't have an ammeter

The only way to measure current is to put it in line with whatever is drawing load, i.e. in series.

I would have put the ammeter on the big red wire that connectes to the battery to give a reading, but this would mean putting a BIG UNFUSED wire into the passenger conparment. This is not a good idea, anything unfused should be as short as possible. Erm, tbh, I'm not sure how the standard fitting of one is, but I'd do a lot of reading up before fitting it.

Website · Post by **antiekeradio** » 23 Jul 2006 03:06 pm

they should have invented ammeters that work like a current clamp long ago. honestly I would never fit one in my car...

i recommend to use a VDO voltmeter instead. this gives you a lot more information about the condition of your electrical system!!!!

12V with engine off, 10-11 when cranking and 13-14.4 (dependant on rpm and load) with engine running.

Post by **jtbo** » 23 Jul 2006 04:03 pm

I do have one amp meter and I have not fitted it because this same reason, it really is risk in system.

Post by **Chris_C** » 23 Jul 2006 04:18 pm

Agreed with Wouter (Antiekeradio) voltmeter will tell you a lot more useful stuff!

Never though of the current clamp idea, but that is genius... wouldn't be that hard either... Off for another random inventing session when I finish current projects!

Post by **Tero Huikko** » 23 Jul 2006 05:03 pm

But I already have econ, ambient temp, volt, oil press, oil temp and turbo boost gauges...and I still have one slot free on my extra gauge panel...don't ask

Pics will surface when project is finished...level control installation is almost ready too.

I thought about the ammeter and I decided to put extra ambient temp gauge instead to measure the air duct flow temperature...

Back to work if I'm gonna finish everything even next week...Foggy needs my old rear shocks...

Post by **jtbo** » 23 Jul 2006 05:18 pm

Ah, I can send my old front shocks, they are great, if you turn it upside down, piston comes out, when you turn it correct position piston goes in, there is no notable resistance when pulling pistons, are available at 0€ only postage need to be paid, what nobody is interested?

I think that intake temp gauge you got now is much better indeed than ammeter, at least safer

Did you install LSD already? Can you tell any difference now?

Post by **Tero Huikko** » 23 Jul 2006 05:24 pm

LSD is next on the list...still looking for 3.26 ratio differential to fit it into...then I'm gonna install it. I have one 3.36 and maybe I'll use that if I don't find 3.26 (pretty rare only in '85 B200K)

Still to do are: leccy glass sunroof, re-make of rear leccy windows, engine heater unit (no room I have to toss the battery into trunk), lsd, rear seat heaters, leather rear headrests, AC cooled front leather seats and many more wacky ideas...oh...and real xenon headlights are a must!

No problems tho' how/where/why I use my spare time.

Website · Post by **antiekeradio** » 23 Jul 2006 07:58 pm

hey Terro, useful for monitoring and not in your current setup is fuel pressure. especially when you have higher boost than the regulator normally works with.

Post by **Fuse** » 23 Jul 2006 10:06 pm

And if you are going turbo in future, wideband Lambda and EGT meters would be good to have too..

Post by **Tero Huikko** » 23 Jul 2006 11:10 pm

Turbo will be B230FK (FT after MOT) with original setup.
No problems with that...remember that 360 is my daily driver...My Oldsmobile is for power, torque and fun ( = read money)

-T