Drifting .........Diff Welding / suspension
Drifting .........Diff Welding / suspension
Now that the car has safely made it back from its european adventure it is time to put into practice phase 2 of the grand plan.....go drifting in it.
In the near future i am looking to put a new engine in the car , preferably the 1.7 turbo lump from a 440/480.
Untill then i want to have a go with the standard 1.7
First thing i guess i need to do is weld the diff... unfortunately I cannot weld or have access to a welder.
Where have people had theirs done.... i would be willing to travel / pay for someone to do it for me.....
Am looking into suspension as well to try and eliminate the horrendous body roll.
I see that classic swede does a kit for about 200 quid for front and rears........ im unsure what height to go for though, am intending to run small ( 13") wheels as i have been told they are they way forward for drifting ... any advice welcomed!!
Thanks!
Sam
In the near future i am looking to put a new engine in the car , preferably the 1.7 turbo lump from a 440/480.
Untill then i want to have a go with the standard 1.7
First thing i guess i need to do is weld the diff... unfortunately I cannot weld or have access to a welder.
Where have people had theirs done.... i would be willing to travel / pay for someone to do it for me.....
Am looking into suspension as well to try and eliminate the horrendous body roll.
I see that classic swede does a kit for about 200 quid for front and rears........ im unsure what height to go for though, am intending to run small ( 13") wheels as i have been told they are they way forward for drifting ... any advice welcomed!!
Thanks!
Sam
-
classicswede
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You want to speak to nev PIMP or bennet both have welded up the diffs for drifting and using the lowering springs etc.
The normal front springs to go for when running the 13" is the extra short and use 2" rear lowering blocks.
The normal front springs to go for when running the 13" is the extra short and use 2" rear lowering blocks.
Dai
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/

Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/

- filthyjohn
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There is a guide over on Trampdrift:-
http://www.trampdrift.com/html/modules. ... age&pid=11
Dont know how good it is though!
This is a sierra diff i think....

http://www.trampdrift.com/html/modules. ... age&pid=11
Dont know how good it is though!
This is a sierra diff i think....

340 GL 1987 (F) - Stripped out & Slammed Daily driver......


- filthyjohn
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Yeah it is fairly easy, its not quite as open to get to as the diff pictured above but theres two fairly large holes which you can see the gears through so you can weld in there alright with a MIG. Hardest bits are actually getting the filler plug and drain plug lose! Just leave it to drain and then the welder burns off any left over oil anyway, clean it out as well as you can (make sure theres no splatter on the main crown wheel!) slap the cover plate back on and fill it up!
Down to one car shocker! 1994 200sx S14 119k
- filthyjohn
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Errrm it shouldn't matter really, the reason I went for mig install of arc was that it'd be fairly easy to spark across onto the main outer section whereas with a MIG you've got the protective sheath and you know your only going to strike an arc when you push the button, its the safer option really!
Down to one car shocker! 1994 200sx S14 119k
Arc welding is also much more difficult than mig, annoying when that stick sticks 
Also I think that with mig you are not getting so bad powder coating as with arc welder it is quite amount of powder that you need to clean afterwards.
One thing to remember is that differential is precision machinery and it requires absolutely clean environment, if there is some loose material, dirt what ever in diff it will not live so long.
It is same with gearbox and engine, when you do work where is possibility to some outside dirt get inside of engine or gearbox, you need to take extra care of cleaning and operating like you were doctor doing surgery.
I know many stories which would not exists if operation has been made with clean methods, for example intake manifold has not been blocked with rag and in first start of rebuilt expensive engine washer goes with air to between valve, causing great damage etc.
I have destroyed at least one engine, from moped because of not being enough careful with this, but still I tend to take a shortcuts, just waiting when I destroy another engine
Also I think that with mig you are not getting so bad powder coating as with arc welder it is quite amount of powder that you need to clean afterwards.
One thing to remember is that differential is precision machinery and it requires absolutely clean environment, if there is some loose material, dirt what ever in diff it will not live so long.
It is same with gearbox and engine, when you do work where is possibility to some outside dirt get inside of engine or gearbox, you need to take extra care of cleaning and operating like you were doctor doing surgery.
I know many stories which would not exists if operation has been made with clean methods, for example intake manifold has not been blocked with rag and in first start of rebuilt expensive engine washer goes with air to between valve, causing great damage etc.
I have destroyed at least one engine, from moped because of not being enough careful with this, but still I tend to take a shortcuts, just waiting when I destroy another engine
- filthyjohn
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