Rust protection.

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Tourinki
Posts: 231
Joined: 30 Oct 2006 04:02 pm
Location: Lieksa, Finland

Rust protection.

Post by Tourinki »

I am currently rebuilding a 1987 or 1986 if you decode Vin-number 360 GLi. Today i started sandblasting righthand side front inner fender. Earlier i removed that black stoneguard stuff. And under that is something redish stuff it seems to be quite tough stuff. And it takes long to even get a little bit steel to show under that red stuff.
What do you think should i get bored and start blasting that redish stuff off or should i just remove that black stuff and if then i discover rust and pacth it up.
The 360 is in quite good condition visible rust just few places and it is just surface rust. So no rust holes.

I'm not sure yet what i should do because i would like see that car on the road asap. But i also would like it to be 100% rust free. But there might be some rust inside some chassis beam.
1999 Volvo S80 T6 Quiet long distance cruiser.
1990 Volvo 360 GLi Waiting inspiration.
1989 Toyota Land Cruiser For days when wellies aren't enough inside the car.
1987 Volvo 360 GLi Being restored.
1986 Volvo 740 Turbo Sold, but not forgotten.
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bogbasic
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Post by bogbasic »

Hello, if the factory rust protection is in good condition, I would leave it well alone. Cheers, bogbasic.
1988 340 1.4 GL, 218k, 5 door (Grey Bess). Gone to CBA.
1991 340 1.7 GL, 64k, 5 door, petrol blue (Deep Blue).
1988 360 2.0 GLE, 140k, 5 door, ocean blue metallic (Blue Bess).
1989 340 1.7 GL, 108k, 3 door (Red Ness).
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filthyjohn
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Post by filthyjohn »

If it ain't broke don't fix it, as they say.
And try the fine products from these amazing brit chemists: http://www.bilthamber.com/dynaxs50.html
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Fuse
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Post by Fuse »

He's also from Finland so factory rust protection is long gone I would think.. :lol: Road salt is a bitch.

If you wan't to keep your car rust free in here and you drive at winter, you really need to keep the rust protection in good shape, which means respraying the Dinitrol/Tectyl or similiar stuff in to the body structures regulary, like every third year. And if you don't keep your underbody coating in good condition you'll get rust there fast..
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filthyjohn
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Post by filthyjohn »

Check out this salt spray grouptest: http://www.bilthamber.com/dynaxs50comparison.html
'87 Nissan Sunny
'95 945 LPT
'90 340 3dr
'87 360 GLT
'87 765 TIC
'75 Manta A
'70 Rover P5 V8
'67 MGB GT
'62 amazon 2dr
Tourinki
Posts: 231
Joined: 30 Oct 2006 04:02 pm
Location: Lieksa, Finland

Post by Tourinki »

Fuse wrote:He's also from Finland so factory rust protection is long gone I would think.. :lol: Road salt is a bitch.

If you wan't to keep your car rust free in here and you drive at winter, you really need to keep the rust protection in good shape, which means respraying the Dinitrol/Tectyl or similiar stuff in to the body structures regulary, like every third year. And if you don't keep your underbody coating in good condition you'll get rust there fast..
Actually that factory rust protection is in good condition. And i can't be bothered to start blasting that stuff off.
So replacing few parts and bit of cutting and bit of welding. It won't take long to get that chassis rust proofed. And soon it will have a new paint job. If could deside the color.
1999 Volvo S80 T6 Quiet long distance cruiser.
1990 Volvo 360 GLi Waiting inspiration.
1989 Toyota Land Cruiser For days when wellies aren't enough inside the car.
1987 Volvo 360 GLi Being restored.
1986 Volvo 740 Turbo Sold, but not forgotten.
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