Okay so i was gonna tighten the carb bolts to the manifold since the car ran like crap and made a whistling sound and was shaking around like mad.. but i think loose carb bolts is the least of my issues
I'm no expert with carbs, but this looks very, very bad. What happened here? This has got to be removed on purpose right? Can this explain the whistling noises and the shaky idling? The whole car shakes at idle and it makes whistling sounds when i don't give it gas. The whistling stops at around 1/2 throttle though.
if your on about the missing butterfly, its like that due to only one barrel ont he carb being used untill your at full throttle where the second kicks in and theres no need for the throttle butterfly.
Nought missing there at all:)
so tighten all the bolts. the wistling sound could be your windows air leak in to the cabin.
Yup, Kaos is right, that butterfly should be missing!
At some point, your air filter to carb top plate bolts have been tapped and replaced with studs (quite common, though usually thicker that that) The bolts and screws to check are 4 holding the carb to the manifold, 5 (I think, but I've done way too much work on 1.7s lately to be sure) that hold the top of the carb onto the bottom, and the 3 that hold the air filter on. All I've seen come loose!
It's not supposed to be there? Goes to show how good i am with eingines One of my neighbors who's been an authorized Ford mechanic for years and years even said it's supposed to have a butterfly there ..
Yeah, i've tightened all the nuts i could find, but I'm not sure if it's enough, I have not been driving it too much. I doubt the whistling is from the windshield since it occurs when the car stands still if I'm pushing the gas pedal less than halfway in. I'll have a swing at properly tightening all the bolts. I don't get whistling or shaking when the engine is cold, so I'll run the engine nice and warm first before i tighten them up, does that seem like a good idea?
There are some srews underneath the base plate of the carb that can come loose and cause air leaks and make the car shakey at idle but you have to remove the carb to get to them. Check out the index "engine runs shakey" at the top of this forum as there is a lot of info in there.
The little studs that hold the filter on to the carb came as standard on mine and don't look as if they've been changed on yours but do watch you don't overtighten these to much, as everyone mentions, as they do tend to strip the threads in the carb side which means tapping new threads in which then get replaced with bolts as quite a few of us have done.
The whistling and shakey idle may even be from split or not connected vacuum hoses to the carb so well worth a check first before removing the carb to check the base plate screws.
kaos wrote:Chris- Ive got studs in mine albeit 2 now as they are absolute crap and threaded its self loose, they are 8mm bolts!
Lol, sort that out buddy, the engine shakes about soo much with that air filter on top (make a bracket if you havn't) that you'll be loosing loads of what little power she has Mine was on 6mm bolts, when those when I drilled and tapped the carb to M8 and used allen head bolts so they still fitted in the air filter!
kaos wrote:Chris- Ive got studs in mine albeit 2 now as they are absolute crap and threaded its self loose, they are 8mm bolts!
Lol, sort that out buddy, the engine shakes about soo much with that air filter on top (make a bracket if you havn't) that you'll be loosing loads of what little power she has Mine was on 6mm bolts, when those when I drilled and tapped the carb to M8 and used allen head bolts so they still fitted in the air filter!
i'd like to get my changed yes she still pulls fine considering shes running lean as feck.(at last count garage told me she was running mega rich again and i think she has gone back up but ohwell engine time soon)
i did look at the renault 5 turbo intake pipe work to see if i could use that to fit a cone filter. but i couldnt get one cheap enough:(
Okay I'm sure the carb is nice and tight now but the whistling sound is still there I even had a guy look it over and adjust the carb and everything, but the whistling is still there. What could this be? Could it be the gasket between the carb and the manifold? Or possibly the exhaust manifold gasket? As i said, it only whistles when the engine's seen some use. It doesn't have to be boiling warm but will appear after maybe 5 minutes of careful driving.
Oh and adjusting the carb made a world of difference to the shaking at idle I'm gonna do it real properly sometime though since he just did it very roughly. Funny how some people are wizards with mechanic stuff, the second i popped the hood he could see from 8 feet away that you needed a 12mm wrench to tighten the nuts on the carb
I know it's only about 5 minutes of driving time before the noise comes in as you say but I was wondering if it may be your electric fan kicking in due to a faulty sender. When the noise starts stop the car and turn the engine off and see if the fan is running still, these make a bit of noise when they start up.
Another thing I have found that causes a whistling sound but it could be to easy is are your heater blower vents closed on either the drivers side or passenger side? The ones on my wifes car whistle if they get fully closed but stop as soon as you open 1 of them slightly.
Is your alternator belt slightly loose? This is normally a squeel type noise though.
Tighten your alternator belt to see if the noise disappears. It may only be just starting to slip slightly when under load while driving but holding just enough if at idle. There should be a 10mm deflection on the longest run of the belt under moderate finger pressure.
It helps if you have someone to help you as it seems to always move when you want to tighten the bolts back up and the belt goes loose again.
If the belt is old or cracked then renew it as a precaution otherwise it could snap under the new tension.
Hmm I've been looking over the engine compartment and the vacuum hoses and something's fishy. I'm gonna go over them and replace all the worn ones, there's one that's been replaced with a Gardena garden hose, there's defo something there as the engine revs up when i spray carb cleaner on that hose. I cannot remember correctly but the gardena hose attaches to a T joint and from there attaches to a funny looking plug/socket/whatever, i guess it has something to do with the crankcase ventilation (which would make perfect sense with it only whistling at 1/2 throttle or less).
Anyway I'm reading that you need some sort of restriction plugin here in order for things to work correctly? Mine does not have that, which might be an issue Can i make one by putting some silicone caulking in the hose, driving a needle through it, wait till it sets and then pull the needle out? If so, how big should the needle be? (roughly).
The restrictor is normally built in to the hose on the 340 1.4 and nearly impossible to get hold of apart maybe from a scrappy or you may get lucky to find somewhere who has one but at mad prices. Best to put a wanted add up on site to see if any of the members may have one or you could try what one member suggested:
(You can make a restrictor from a piece of plastic tubing that has a 0.1 inch hole and is a push fit in the rubber hose. You can block the rubber hose completely temporarily but you will have a rich idle mixture maybe sooting up the plugs eventually. best luck , Steve )
As to the size of main tube i'm not sure of and I can't check it as the car is not here. Someone on site may know or see what type of fit the hosepipe gave and take it wth you and get a smaller internal diameter tube and try what Steve said above.
Just something to point out....the flap(s) on the top there is the choke flap - not the throttle. The throttle plate is almost always on the engine side of the carb.
Why is there only one? Because the second throttle is disengaged (i.e. stuck shut) when the choke is out. Having said that, I'm pretty certain that the Solex CISAC carbs on the 1.7 and 2.0 have two choke flaps (and still have the disengaged secondary barrel).
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Mine was on 6mm bolts, when those when I drilled and tapped the carb to M8 and used allen head bolts so they still fitted in the air filter!
I even had a guy look it over and adjust the carb and everything, but the whistling is still there. What could this be? Could it be the gasket between the carb and the manifold? Or possibly the exhaust manifold gasket? As i said, it only whistles when the engine's seen some use. It doesn't have to be boiling warm but will appear after maybe 5 minutes of careful driving.
