I heard someone say that you can fabricate an adaptor plate for golf discs / calipers to fit on a 300

anyone happen to have a schematic of this laying about, or a link to the right thread? I had a look but couldnt find it anywhere

any info on how thick this plate needs to be would also be appreciated - don't want it bending when i stamp on the middle pedal

Are there any Golf discs that are worth upgrading to? I assume you mean Mk2 Golfs. Id've thought they weren't that much bigger?

I think Chris_C had some vented discs on his 360 that were from a Capri? But worth checking with him

I dunno to be honest, I think i read it in Practical Performance Mag.

I kindof assumed that the calipers were the main inprovement, but dont know if they are 4pot, or the same 2 pots as i have already, or what...

if the discs are no bigger then no point i guess, but any suggestions as to where to go / what replacements to use are greatly appreciated.

Im glad someone found a part to use from a recent car that still has parts available. oh wait.. no, capri is defunct now too lol

My GLT had been fitted with 2.8 Capri discs, though as I didn't do the work, I can't let you know much about it. As far as I can work out, there is some machining required, but standard calipers are used at least. They are the same size, but vented.

cool... What do they feel like? do they have any more bite than the standards? noticed any difference?

really i was looking to get a nice pair of 4pots on the front. not necessarily a bigger disc, but then that might come with the turf, as it were..

i havent noticed any weakness but i think my discs are warped - it judders under heavy stamping on brakes, and seems to pull in random directions a little bit at the same time. It almost feels as though the tie-bars are bent or loose but when on viual inspection nothing seems loose...

I figured i may as well upgrade, instead of just replacing bits.

I for one think the standard brakes are class. The only thing I'll hear against them is that they fade when really hammered. Vented discs would cure this up to a point, but Capri ones won't be a straight fit. Even if by some fluke they happen to be the right offset, thickness and diameter, you'd still need the centres drilling to 4x100 because Capris are 108.
Elk Parts sell Black Diamond grooved discs and pads for the 300 series, but they aren't listed on the website so you'd have to phone them. TBH, braided hoses and new fluid are normally the easiest and best upgrades to factory brakes, so you could give that a try while you're on.
HTH

sounds sensible

I'll give em a bell this week at some point, get a quote etc. If i can still get them, anyway...

capri 2.8i discs just need the holes for 4x100pcd, but they are obviously a fair bit wider than standard so some material needs to come off the pads. Thats it as far as I'm aware... I picked up a pair of capri for £3 but have yet to offer them up to my spare struts. I agree with fj that the standard brakes are very good on "normal" tyres (read: not really soft compounds). I didn't get much fade after 100+ miles of twisty lanes and that was with appalling ebc pads and very very old fluid. However I suspect with decent tyres for and for performance use then its worth getting a more complete solution i.e. work out a wilwood setup.

Also, I wouldn't bother with black diamond stuff as its just silly money for a matched set of mediocre pads and discs (which I doubt will help cooling much). If you want pads then I'd recommend mintex m1144 as they are widely accepted as the standard for good braking at high temps and from cold!

^^^ A Willwood setup would be excellent, with seperate disc bells, meaning you could change discs without faffing around with the wheel bearings. Then you could use 240 calipers with a 305mm disc, or a Wilwood caliper. The thing is they don't don't list a kit for a 240 on their site, or opel manta/vauxhall cavalier (same caliper bolt spacing), so it would need further investigation.

I was going to look into it, but my problem is I really want to use 14" wheels (to keep a good amount of sidewall for bumpy stuff) which puts a limit on the disc of about 260mm or something. Hence picking up some spare struts and capri discs.

In that case you should also find some mx5 wheels, there's one style they came with that are silly light, should help a bit.

Click and scroll down

Stuart... grip wise, there was no way of telling. A well set up standard set will out grip 90% of tyres, and if you have good technique will never fade. I've done a heck of a lot of rallying, autotesting and some circuits with mine, and never had a problem... although I'm intriugued to see how the next season of rallying will be for me, my new tyres have made it a lot lot harder to lock up in the dry.

The only reason you'd swap to the capri's is the increased cooling, they'll offer no more stop, but as I said, on Michelin Pilots, Pirelli P4000 and P6000 and Avon CR322 I could always lock the wheels even at the end of a 2 hour rally. Bad technique, you'll get about 10mins off them...

New fluid will make a huge difference, do the flexi's at the same time as John says and you are laughing. I'm certainly looking for something new to go with the Bridgestones I've got on atm, but currently am just going with cooling ducts.

good brake refresh ought to suffice for most people, like I said just don't fit track tyres and there should be no problems locking the wheels. (though of course, better tyres go hand in hand with stopping faster!)

the guy on here who has higgin's old car has g60 discs on i think........

yup, was running g60 discs and wilwood dynalite calipers iirc