Hello im new to the forum. Im from SA, australia and plan to attempt to make my volvo 360 into something fun to drive.

yesterday i took it in standard form for a bit of a 'clean out' and in doing so i have managed to make the clutch always on - wont deactivate. The cable has not broken or been damaged. . .

what would cause this? any ideas?

also what is a upgrade clutch for the 360? im unsure if i will be able to get anything but standard in australia. Im just after a organic one with a heavy pressure plate, as if i go ceramic like in my nissan i think i will brake shit. lol and i very much doubt serious clutch kits are made for these cars.

I have also just soured some custom springs from another car to go in the front (7kg/mm) and will look into upgraded shocks/swaybars and weld the diff asap. lol

anyway thanks for any help, andy.

How sure you are that it is a clutch?

Prop shaft to box connecting joint can fail, also so can diff if you are launching it hard from standing still, both have effect of no go.

im not sure but im going to strip it down in next few days to find out what is damaged. Its just that when the clutch was put to gripping point it vibrated like a bitch. . but once engaged it ran prefect. . not sure. ..

Sounds like the clutch was on its way out. When you say deactivate, do you mean you've lost drive or you can't change gear cos the clutch is stuck on? If the clutch is stuck on, then its probably stuck on the splines of the clutch shaft.

Unfortunately its a complete PITA to get to relubricate, so if you're going to the bother of stripping it down I'd personally put a whole new clutch in, pressure plate, release bearing, the lot. Trial fit the clutch plate to make sure it slides freely along the splines, if it sticks then get a good brush and brake parts cleaner and give it a good clean, and then get a good dobbit of lithium grease on there to keep it free.

pettaw wrote:Sounds like the clutch was on its way out. When you say deactivate, do you mean you've lost drive or you can't change gear cos the clutch is stuck on? If the clutch is stuck on, then its probably stuck on the splines of the clutch shaft.

Unfortunately its a complete PITA to get to relubricate, so if you're going to the bother of stripping it down I'd personally put a whole new clutch in, pressure plate, release bearing, the lot. Trial fit the clutch plate to make sure it slides freely along the splines, if it sticks then get a good brush and brake parts cleaner and give it a good clean, and then get a good dobbit of lithium grease on there to keep it free.

i recon she has just stripped the splines on the clutch plate. . as it still creeps forward in each gear and creeps back in reverse.

AND FUCK ME. HOW HARD IS IT TO CHANGE THE CLUTCH. some photos, and yes i am now taking the engine out. but seriously what a head fuck. and also a photo of my dedicated track car.






i almost got the prop shaft out but still need another inch or so. so gona take engine out as its just easier. gay gay gay



and this is what that car does - http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=cGLO0RIzLXI

cheeze no one replys on this forum!

anyway, the issue. lucky it has not done this on the other side of the plate - so flywheel not fukt. If i do go through with this, i have found a place that will make me a custom ceramic brass button clutch for around the same price as i got quoted for a standard replacement item. but im not sure if there is any point getting a strong clutch if the drive line is weak as shit.



engine is now out with propshaft and gearbox and diff still attached to eachother. no idea how the propshaft comes out.

im 90% ready to scrap the car so please give me motivation if u want it saved. gearbox was tight as and diff had perfect oil in it.

car has 270 000 km and is in overall good nick

I'm less than useful on 360 drivelines... but wtf caused that!? Has it stripped the rivets as well as taking the material off? The gearbox will see you to over 200, so I wouldn't stress about that too much.

Diff *will* get upset if you run it spinning up and open all the time though.

Get it back together with a new clutch, as Chris says you shouldn't have much trouble around 200bhp, if you're worried about the diff you could weld it as they seem to be a bit stronger like that.

Clutch is indeed like a fuse in these, or at least better keep it that way, driveline is not very good for standing starts and burnouts, sensible time attacks on track is what it can handle pretty well with increased HP too.