Oil changes

[Speedy88]

So I've had some mixed messages about oil changes from a number of sources. Haynes tells me I should change oil every 6000 miles, my old ford manual said all engines every 12,000 miles (but then that was a diesel). In my personal opinion it should be done every 10,000 miles and I've had other answers off car type people. I need some clarification, what's about right?

[SteveP]

I'd do it every 6k to be honest

[Ride_on]

In my experience 10K is fine for a 360 driven plenty. Issues requiring oil changes:

1. Oil breakdown -
2. Oil contamination from sooty burn,
3. Oil contamination from acid or water build-up
4. Oil sludge

Oil breakdown is normally more a problem in Turbo's
Oil contamination may affect engine wear but there is so much margin in a 360 they don't wear much.
360s do tend to be a bit dirty hence the poor MPG, but I have only seen 2 truly clean engines (one was a Fiat strada, the oil came out as clear as it went in).
Oil sludge can be a issue for B200s and depends on yearly milage, ie if too low it means the engine does not get up to working temp enough, and can also be caused by point 1.

If it was only used on short journeys I would tend to do a long journey or give it a good trashing when the opportunity arose every so often rather than change the oil at 6K. I do also tend to use good semi-syth oil, as the car just starts and revs better when its cold.

I've seen 1 engine ruined by sludge (B230FK in a 940), but even then all it needed was an oil pump and a clean. Cam was a little scored as was the cyls probably, but it ran fine and returned 30MPG.

[classicswede]

For a 360 running on petrol I would recomend changing every 6000 miles or 12 months whichever soonest. If running on LPG 10,000 or 12 months. If you do mainly short distance (less than 5 miles) I would suggest dropping it down to 3000 miles.

[EvilRacer329]

I've got to agree with Dai - remember that the horrible black crap you flush out, filled with unburnt fuel, carbon, dirt, and burnt & ground-off bits off engine are what's supposed to be lubricating moving parts of your beloved engine at 8,000 RPM. Now maybe it's the time I've spent with motorcycle engines means that I've got this in mind more than I used to.

I'd prefer to change both oil and filter at 3K and keep the engine clean and well-oiled. Is it worth the risk for £25 worth of bits and an hour's work?

L8rz!
Nick

[SteveP]

Yeah, that's the thing... £25 and not a lot of time, you don't reaaaally even need to jack the car up if you've got a handy kerb

[Speedy88]

Fair enough! Pizza delivering is pretty hard on engines so I'll deffinatly change it soon. Done about 4k since my last one, I'm also doing the clutch and carb soon so I'll make a day of it

[EvilRacer329]

See, now that's my kind of day off!

Throw in an induction clean and some light welding and you've got the perfect Sunday

Nick

[Speedy88]

I'm sorry, but how the hell are you meant to undo the oil drain plug?!! I've got some oversized Philips hole that I've not got any screwdriver big enough for. Fair enough I thought, just get the mole grips on there. I've been wrestling with it for about 20 minutes and it has precisely zero give. Am I missing something or is this not normal?

[SteveP]

Will a 1/2inch drive fit in there from a breaker bar/ratchet etc... although no idea what the B172 sump plugs are like but it sounds like one of them

[Speedy88]

Turns out it's a 1/4 drive, thanks for the heads up. Still can't shift it though and it's pissing it down again Try again tomorrow

[SteveP]

What you using? A small 1/4 drive breaker bar should make easy work of it. Just be careful not to overtighten when you put it back in.

[Speedy88]

Well my old breaker got lost when I moved back down south. Currently using a short one and hope the hammer will sort it. May also give the torque wench a go as it's got more leverage but I'll have to be careful with that.