Hi Guys,

I've got a minor coolant leak on the 360. It doesn't start until the engine gets up to temperature, and carries on until the engine cools down. Waterpump seem ok, and all hoses look fine, however I've not been able to take the bumper off and have a good look.
Leak seems to be coming from the panel just underneath the Rad. I took it to the local Volvo specialists yesterday, they had a quick look and because the engine was cold, couldnt find a leak.
They suspect the Rad but won't know for sure until next week when they have time to look it over properly.

I'm losing about two inches out of the expansion tank at the moment, but would like to catch it before it gets worse.

If it is the Rad, been quoted 250dollars for a new Rad, plus another 500 to fit it. I reckon I can do this myself though, even though its a tricky job, with the air-con in the way.

Any ideas about the leak?

Tom

yes likely the rad; with the thermostate open (warm engine) the coolant starts to flow through it and then the leaking starts

I've had a waterpump do this too, didn't leak under there was pressure build up in the system then the seal would let water out around the pump shaft.

if its the rad, its easy to do yourself

theres a couple of rads on ebay uk at the moment silly cheap, shouldnt be much more to ship to Aus' !

kaos wrote:, shouldnt be much more to ship to Aus' !

FAIL!!!!!!
Two tail lights.
Shipping alone - £45 quid odd.


A rad is bigger and heavier.
I wince an the thought of what one of those badboys would cost.

Close to £80 from the uk to Aus for a Rad

Took the bumper and grill off yesterday to have a better look. Ran the engine up.....no leak. Took the car round the block and got it nice and hot....no leak. Let it tick over for half an hour in the sun....no leak.

How odd.

I'm going to put it back together later on, mix up a load of antifreeze, get some of that radweld stuff, check my breakdown cover, and keep a close eye on it till monday. If it does spring a leak again, I'll whip the Rad out, and take it a Rad specialist - I'm sure I can get it repaired - I'll make a few enquiries....

Thanks for the help so far!

DON'T USE RADWELD

If you want to plug some gaps up try the old "break 2 raw eggs into the water" trick. I know some proper old skool mechanics who have been doing that for years. Radweld causes real headaches, it should only be used if you expect to break down.

No Radweld. Righto

Mine did exactly the same, it might be a cracked top hose connection (soldered joint) or bottom hose depending on which side the water's dripping from. Mine went at the end of last year just before I took the car off the road for winter, exactly the same, only leaked when the engine got up to temperature. Just fixed it with a blowtorch and some solder, so far so good. If it is this, make a ring of thick copper wire around the pipe as it helps to keep the molten solder from running off and will strengthen the joint.

Put the bumper and grille back on earlier (threading those bumper indicators through is nice and fiddly!) took car for a spin, no leak.... I guess I'll just have to keep an eye on it

I'm off to a classic car show on sunday anyway. I remember going last year and seeing all the MG midgets and Triumph Stags gently overheating at the side of the road

I hate intermittent problems like this, there a ballache lol!

Considering your climate out there and how hot it can get I think for peice of mind i'd still be inclined to go get the rad pressure tested if you have a specialist nearby, at least then if it's that small a leak that it's intermittent it should still be in the area of a cheap repair saving you ALOT from having to replace it aswell!

Hope you get it sorted either way dude!

I miss Perth lol

Could be an intermittent leak but I've never seen this on any of the joints, only the head gasket. BTW the rad pipe joints are brazed not soldered, big difference in melting point and strength. The thermostat is not sealed when it is cold, you still get pressure building, there would be some dribbling. If its is not leaking out when cold or visibly when hot it is either going out the exhaust or into the oil.

Water pump seal is an interesting one, add that to the book!

Why has noone mentioned head gasket yet?

I'm fairly sure it's not the Head Gasket... It had a new cylinder head on it about 25k ago. I'm not getting water in the oil or vice versa...yet. No mayo in the oil, and coolant looks ok, heater works ok etc. Though there's plenty of different signs of HGF...

Though that's the worse case scenario. If the head goes then I'll probably have to scrap the car as I'm sure it'll be ruinous to fix!

However I hope that won't happen.

Ride_on wrote:BTW the rad pipe joints are brazed not soldered, big difference in melting point and strength

Thats right, a blowtorch is much hotter than a soldering iron I remember brazing in metalwork at school now!